Difference between revisions of "Wash Your Bike"
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| − | + | Clean bicycles not only look better, but they work better and even go faster. Regular washings will keep your bike free from costly repairs or damage due to rust or corrosion, and it only takes 10-15 minutes to do properly. | |
[[Category:Bicycles]] | [[Category:Bicycles]] | ||
== Steps == | == Steps == | ||
===Cleaning the Drivetrain=== | ===Cleaning the Drivetrain=== | ||
#Always clean your drivetrain, which propels the bike, first. The drivetrain is the transmission of your bike. It is made up of four parts: '''a cassette''' (collection of gears on your back wheel), '''a rear derailleur''' (metal arm on the back wheel), '''chain rings''' (big gears next to your pedals), and '''the chain.''' The drivetrain gets you moving, but as dirt, rust and grime add up you become more prone to skipping and chain issues. | #Always clean your drivetrain, which propels the bike, first. The drivetrain is the transmission of your bike. It is made up of four parts: '''a cassette''' (collection of gears on your back wheel), '''a rear derailleur''' (metal arm on the back wheel), '''chain rings''' (big gears next to your pedals), and '''the chain.''' The drivetrain gets you moving, but as dirt, rust and grime add up you become more prone to skipping and chain issues. | ||
| − | #*Frequent cleaning and maintenance of your drive train can add years to your bike's working lifespan.<ref>http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-chain.html</ref> | + | #*Frequent cleaning and maintenance of your drive train can add years to your bike's working lifespan.<ref name="rf1">http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-chain.html</ref> |
#Elevate the bike or turn it over so that you can pedal without the bike moving. You will need to get the chain moving on the bike to clean it properly. If you don't have a bike stand, flip the bike over on the seat and handlebars. Be sure to put a towel or rag that you don't mind getting dirty underneath the bike to avoid scuffing the seat or handles. | #Elevate the bike or turn it over so that you can pedal without the bike moving. You will need to get the chain moving on the bike to clean it properly. If you don't have a bike stand, flip the bike over on the seat and handlebars. Be sure to put a towel or rag that you don't mind getting dirty underneath the bike to avoid scuffing the seat or handles. | ||
| − | #Use a rag and biodegreaser to scrub the chain. Biodegreaser, otherwise known as biodegradable solvent, cuts through grime like soap but won't ruin or gum up your chain. You can find it at most bike stores, near the lubricant. Pour a little bit on your rag and clamp it over the chain, lightly enough that the chain can still freely move between your fingers. Pedal the bike with your other hand, running the chain for 2-3 cycles.<ref>http://www.bikemaine.org/biking-resources/maintenance-tips</ref> | + | #Use a rag and biodegreaser to scrub the chain. Biodegreaser, otherwise known as biodegradable solvent, cuts through grime like soap but won't ruin or gum up your chain. You can find it at most bike stores, near the lubricant. Pour a little bit on your rag and clamp it over the chain, lightly enough that the chain can still freely move between your fingers. Pedal the bike with your other hand, running the chain for 2-3 cycles.<ref name="rf2">http://www.bikemaine.org/biking-resources/maintenance-tips</ref> |
#*Run the chain through the rag 2-3 more times, placing pressure lightly with your fingers on the top, bottom, and both sides of the chain. | #*Run the chain through the rag 2-3 more times, placing pressure lightly with your fingers on the top, bottom, and both sides of the chain. | ||
#*Knock off any patches of grease or grime with your rag if they are still visible. | #*Knock off any patches of grease or grime with your rag if they are still visible. | ||
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#*The jockey wheels, the small cogs on the derailleur arm that need cleaning too. | #*The jockey wheels, the small cogs on the derailleur arm that need cleaning too. | ||
#*The backside (closest to the bike) of the chain rings. | #*The backside (closest to the bike) of the chain rings. | ||
| − | #*The bike frame, joints, and hinges near the chain.<ref>http://mikesbikes.com/how-to/drivetrain-cleaning-and-lubrication-pg137.htm</ref> | + | #*The bike frame, joints, and hinges near the chain.<ref name="rf3">http://mikesbikes.com/how-to/drivetrain-cleaning-and-lubrication-pg137.htm</ref> |
| − | #Purchase a chain cleaner for extremely grimy chains. If a rag and a toothbrush don't cut it, you may need to buy a chain cleaning tool.You add degreaser to the box and clamp it over your chain. You can then hold the tool in place while pedaling the bike, which brushes and scrubs the chain links for you. They are usually $20-$30 and come with degreaser and a brush for hard to read areas.<ref>http://trekstorecincinnati.com/articles/how-to-clean-your-chain-and-drivetrain-pg603.htm</ref> | + | #Purchase a chain cleaner for extremely grimy chains. If a rag and a toothbrush don't cut it, you may need to buy a chain cleaning tool.You add degreaser to the box and clamp it over your chain. You can then hold the tool in place while pedaling the bike, which brushes and scrubs the chain links for you. They are usually $20-$30 and come with degreaser and a brush for hard to read areas.<ref name="rf4">http://trekstorecincinnati.com/articles/how-to-clean-your-chain-and-drivetrain-pg603.htm</ref> |
#[[Lube a Bicycle Chain|Lube your bike chain immediately after cleaning it.]] No matter how often you bike, you should always have a bottle of chain lube handy, which should both lubricate the chain and protect it from dirt and moisture. Slowly turn the pedals after cleaning and drying everything. Apply a single drop of lube to every 2-4 links, where one link meets another. Once you've hit the whole chain, shift through your gears and apply another 10-12 drops to make sure everything, cassette included, has a nice even coating. Use your rag to wipe up any excess lube from the chain when you are done, as extra lube can hold dirt and lead to grime. If you are going to clean the rest of your bike as well, wait and do this at the very end. | #[[Lube a Bicycle Chain|Lube your bike chain immediately after cleaning it.]] No matter how often you bike, you should always have a bottle of chain lube handy, which should both lubricate the chain and protect it from dirt and moisture. Slowly turn the pedals after cleaning and drying everything. Apply a single drop of lube to every 2-4 links, where one link meets another. Once you've hit the whole chain, shift through your gears and apply another 10-12 drops to make sure everything, cassette included, has a nice even coating. Use your rag to wipe up any excess lube from the chain when you are done, as extra lube can hold dirt and lead to grime. If you are going to clean the rest of your bike as well, wait and do this at the very end. | ||
| − | #*Your goal is a light coating of lube on the entire chain, not to drench it in lube. It should light coat your fingers if you touch the chain.<ref | + | #*Your goal is a light coating of lube on the entire chain, not to drench it in lube. It should light coat your fingers if you touch the chain.<ref name="rf4" /> |
#*Feel the chain with your fingers -- if it feels dry then you need to apply more lube. | #*Feel the chain with your fingers -- if it feels dry then you need to apply more lube. | ||
#*Never use WD-40 on a bike chain -- it is not made for the weather or stress. | #*Never use WD-40 on a bike chain -- it is not made for the weather or stress. | ||
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#Rest the bike in a stand, on a rack, against a tree, or upside down. Lay a mat or old sheet down on the ground to protect the seat and bars from dirt and scuff marks if you've turned it upside down. Make sure you are in an open, well-ventilated area that can get wet without ruining anything. | #Rest the bike in a stand, on a rack, against a tree, or upside down. Lay a mat or old sheet down on the ground to protect the seat and bars from dirt and scuff marks if you've turned it upside down. Make sure you are in an open, well-ventilated area that can get wet without ruining anything. | ||
#Spray down the bike with a low-pressure hose. You don't want to blast any of the dirt away, you simply want to wet the bike and remove and loose dirt and grime before you start scrubbing. | #Spray down the bike with a low-pressure hose. You don't want to blast any of the dirt away, you simply want to wet the bike and remove and loose dirt and grime before you start scrubbing. | ||
| − | #*Never use a high-pressure hose or nozzle setting. This can force water into your components, causing internal rusting or de-lubricating important junctions.<ref>http://www.bicycling.com/maintenance/bike-washing/how-wash-your-bike</ref> | + | #*Never use a high-pressure hose or nozzle setting. This can force water into your components, causing internal rusting or de-lubricating important junctions.<ref name="rf5">http://www.bicycling.com/maintenance/bike-washing/how-wash-your-bike</ref> |
#Fill up a bucket with warm water. If you desire, you can also add a bike specific cleaner, but avoid using ordinary dish soap as it typically contains salt which can corrode parts of the bike, including the frame. You will want to use a different bucket and sponge than the ones used for your drivetrain. Grease from the chain and cassette will get on your frame if you don't use fresh supplies, ruining your clean-up job. | #Fill up a bucket with warm water. If you desire, you can also add a bike specific cleaner, but avoid using ordinary dish soap as it typically contains salt which can corrode parts of the bike, including the frame. You will want to use a different bucket and sponge than the ones used for your drivetrain. Grease from the chain and cassette will get on your frame if you don't use fresh supplies, ruining your clean-up job. | ||
#Remove your wheels. You want to get into those as much as possible and you need to get on the inside of the frame with your sponge. The wheels make it difficult to clean the parts of the bike closest to the ground and tire, which are often the dirtiest areas. | #Remove your wheels. You want to get into those as much as possible and you need to get on the inside of the frame with your sponge. The wheels make it difficult to clean the parts of the bike closest to the ground and tire, which are often the dirtiest areas. | ||
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#*If there is a particularly tricky bit of grime, apply a small drop of soap or degreaser onto the spot with some water and let it soak for several minutes. Methodically scrub, in a circular motion, until you get it removed. | #*If there is a particularly tricky bit of grime, apply a small drop of soap or degreaser onto the spot with some water and let it soak for several minutes. Methodically scrub, in a circular motion, until you get it removed. | ||
#*If you have caliper breaks (two black pads which pinch the top of the wheel), use the rough side of the sponge to remove any crud build up on them. | #*If you have caliper breaks (two black pads which pinch the top of the wheel), use the rough side of the sponge to remove any crud build up on them. | ||
| − | #*If you have disc brakes (attached metal disc to the wheels), wipe down both sides with the soft side of the sponge.<ref>http://bicyclehabitat.com/how-to/how-to-wash-your-bike-pg363.htm</ref> | + | #*If you have disc brakes (attached metal disc to the wheels), wipe down both sides with the soft side of the sponge.<ref name="rf6">http://bicyclehabitat.com/how-to/how-to-wash-your-bike-pg363.htm</ref> |
#Wipe down the rims of your wheels. The tires, which will become dirty again the second they touch the road, do not need to be cleaned. But the metal rim of the wheel can pick up gunk that gets in the way of your breaks. Use the abrasive side of a sponge to clean off the edges and lightly wipe down each spoke so your bike looks clean and sparkly. | #Wipe down the rims of your wheels. The tires, which will become dirty again the second they touch the road, do not need to be cleaned. But the metal rim of the wheel can pick up gunk that gets in the way of your breaks. Use the abrasive side of a sponge to clean off the edges and lightly wipe down each spoke so your bike looks clean and sparkly. | ||
#*Use a toothbrush to scrub the hub-- the small cylinder in the center of the wheel -- and the nuts and bolts on either side of it. | #*Use a toothbrush to scrub the hub-- the small cylinder in the center of the wheel -- and the nuts and bolts on either side of it. | ||
| − | #*If you want to clean your tires, or you see large chunks of mud in the treads, use a big, heavy bristled brush (like the one sold with a dust pan)<ref | + | #*If you want to clean your tires, or you see large chunks of mud in the treads, use a big, heavy bristled brush (like the one sold with a dust pan)<ref name="rf5" /> to clean them quickly and painlessly. |
#Use a clean rag to get deep into your rear cassette. The rear cassette is the collection of gears on the back of the bike. While you cleaned it briefly when you cleaned the drivetrain, you should take the time to make sure it is spotless when doing a full bike cleaning. Drip some soapy water into the cassette, then use a clean rag to "floss" in between each of the gears and remove any extra gunk built up deep in the cassette. | #Use a clean rag to get deep into your rear cassette. The rear cassette is the collection of gears on the back of the bike. While you cleaned it briefly when you cleaned the drivetrain, you should take the time to make sure it is spotless when doing a full bike cleaning. Drip some soapy water into the cassette, then use a clean rag to "floss" in between each of the gears and remove any extra gunk built up deep in the cassette. | ||
#Lightly pat everything dry and let the bike sit in the sun and open air. You don't want water sitting around and pooling in your components. Take a clean, dry rag or towel and wipe up excess water. Focus on the joints and components -- anywhere where water could presumably sit for a long time. When you're done, put the bike back together and let it air dry, preferably in the sun. | #Lightly pat everything dry and let the bike sit in the sun and open air. You don't want water sitting around and pooling in your components. Take a clean, dry rag or towel and wipe up excess water. Focus on the joints and components -- anywhere where water could presumably sit for a long time. When you're done, put the bike back together and let it air dry, preferably in the sun. | ||
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#*Pivot points on your breaks, usually the part that holds the two sides together (caliper breaks only). | #*Pivot points on your breaks, usually the part that holds the two sides together (caliper breaks only). | ||
#*Use your fingers or a small rag to coat the cables in a thin layer of lube. | #*Use your fingers or a small rag to coat the cables in a thin layer of lube. | ||
| − | #*The shifters, if exposed. Make sure you ''only'' use bike lubricant.<ref>http://www.bicycling.com/maintenance/bicycle-maintenance/where-use-bike-lubricant</ref> | + | #*The shifters, if exposed. Make sure you ''only'' use bike lubricant.<ref name="rf7">http://www.bicycling.com/maintenance/bicycle-maintenance/where-use-bike-lubricant</ref> |
| − | #Keep a close eye on your drivetrain. There are very few areas that get as dirty as a drivetrain, but this is probably the single most important area to keep clean. If you ride your bike daily a weekly or bi-weekly cleaning for your chain, cassette, and derailleurs is likely necessary.<ref>http://totalwomenscycling.com/road-cycling/maintenance/clean-bike-32127/#lkh7RgBKdKOYLdi8.97</ref> | + | #Keep a close eye on your drivetrain. There are very few areas that get as dirty as a drivetrain, but this is probably the single most important area to keep clean. If you ride your bike daily a weekly or bi-weekly cleaning for your chain, cassette, and derailleurs is likely necessary.<ref name="rf8">http://totalwomenscycling.com/road-cycling/maintenance/clean-bike-32127/#lkh7RgBKdKOYLdi8.97</ref> |
| − | #*You will likely need to clean your drivetrain more often than the rest of the bike. At the very least you should check, clean, and potentially lube the chain every 1-2 weeks.<ref | + | #*You will likely need to clean your drivetrain more often than the rest of the bike. At the very least you should check, clean, and potentially lube the chain every 1-2 weeks.<ref name="rf2" /> |
#Clean your bike regularly to protect it from rust and damage. You should wipe down and clean your bike monthly, at a minimum. A good benchmark is to go through a cleaning after every 20-25 rides or so. You can then perform a deep clean and re-lubricate everything 1-2 a year. That said, there are sometimes you should always clean off your bike-- | #Clean your bike regularly to protect it from rust and damage. You should wipe down and clean your bike monthly, at a minimum. A good benchmark is to go through a cleaning after every 20-25 rides or so. You can then perform a deep clean and re-lubricate everything 1-2 a year. That said, there are sometimes you should always clean off your bike-- | ||
#*After a very wet and muddy ride. | #*After a very wet and muddy ride. | ||
#*When you hear squeaking or rubbing. | #*When you hear squeaking or rubbing. | ||
| − | #*Whenever you see dirt, grease, or grime in the joints, brakes, gears, or chain.<ref>http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-maintenance.html</ref> | + | #*Whenever you see dirt, grease, or grime in the joints, brakes, gears, or chain.<ref name="rf9">http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-maintenance.html</ref> |
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== Tips == | == Tips == | ||
