Difference between revisions of "Make an Elizabethan Ruff"
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| − | The ruff is one of the distinguishing features of the Elizabethan age. It was worn by the middle and upper class as a fashionable neck accessory, like a necktie. Ruffs came in a variety of widths, shapes, decorations, and even colors.<ref>http://www.elizabethancostume.net/ruffs.html</ref> The process to make an Elizabethan ruff, with ribbon or with linen, is not complicated but it will require some time and patience. | + | The ruff is one of the distinguishing features of the Elizabethan age. It was worn by the middle and upper class as a fashionable neck accessory, like a necktie. Ruffs came in a variety of widths, shapes, decorations, and even colors.<ref name="rf1">http://www.elizabethancostume.net/ruffs.html</ref> The process to make an Elizabethan ruff, with ribbon or with linen, is not complicated but it will require some time and patience. |
[[Category:Historical Costumes]] | [[Category:Historical Costumes]] | ||
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#*Cut the 1” satin ribbon based on the wearer’s neck length, plus two inches. | #*Cut the 1” satin ribbon based on the wearer’s neck length, plus two inches. | ||
#*It’s important to buy ribbon based on how high you want the ruff to be. This example will create a 2-3 inch ruff. | #*It’s important to buy ribbon based on how high you want the ruff to be. This example will create a 2-3 inch ruff. | ||
| − | #*You can also use an online calculator to determine just how much ribbon you are going to need for the ruff.<ref>http://www.elizabethancostume.net/ruffcalc.html</ref> | + | #*You can also use an online calculator to determine just how much ribbon you are going to need for the ruff.<ref name="rf2">http://www.elizabethancostume.net/ruffcalc.html</ref> |
#Fold each end of the cut ribbon by an inch. Crease the ribbon so you have a neat edge. | #Fold each end of the cut ribbon by an inch. Crease the ribbon so you have a neat edge. | ||
#Pleat the wired ribbon at 1 inch intervals. Do this on a gridded mat to ensure the pleats are spaced evenly. Or, use a ruler to mark out 1 inch sections on the ribbon with a pencil. | #Pleat the wired ribbon at 1 inch intervals. Do this on a gridded mat to ensure the pleats are spaced evenly. Or, use a ruler to mark out 1 inch sections on the ribbon with a pencil. | ||
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#Fold the last bit of wired ribbon under, as you did at the beginning of the process. At the end of the measured ribbon, fold the wired ribbon under so you have a nice, neat end. | #Fold the last bit of wired ribbon under, as you did at the beginning of the process. At the end of the measured ribbon, fold the wired ribbon under so you have a nice, neat end. | ||
#Sew 12 to 18 inches of narrow ribbon or cord to each end of the ruff. This will help the wearer tie on the ruff and secure it. | #Sew 12 to 18 inches of narrow ribbon or cord to each end of the ruff. This will help the wearer tie on the ruff and secure it. | ||
| − | #*Elizabethans wore their ruffs tied in the back. Women sometimes wore their ruffs open in the front, particularly if they were wearing an open partlet with a low cut bodice.<ref | + | #*Elizabethans wore their ruffs tied in the back. Women sometimes wore their ruffs open in the front, particularly if they were wearing an open partlet with a low cut bodice.<ref name="rf1" /> |
#Maintain the ruff. The wearer will likely sweat when wearing the ruff band. So keep it looking clean and nice by washing it after use. | #Maintain the ruff. The wearer will likely sweat when wearing the ruff band. So keep it looking clean and nice by washing it after use. | ||
#*Hand wash it in the sink with a little warm water and mild soap. Let it air dry on a towel. | #*Hand wash it in the sink with a little warm water and mild soap. Let it air dry on a towel. | ||
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#*Be wary of Chinese linen, woven from a very short staple fiber and prone to wrinkling. | #*Be wary of Chinese linen, woven from a very short staple fiber and prone to wrinkling. | ||
#*Irish, German, and Italian linens are all good options. | #*Irish, German, and Italian linens are all good options. | ||
| − | #Pre shrink the linen. Wash it in hot water. Let it dry and then press it with an iron.<ref>http://www.stgeorgenorth.org/yahoo_site_admin/assets/docs/How_To_Construct_an_Authentic_Ruff_wth_Pictures_and_FB_Tutorial_and_Diagrams.202202539.pdf</ref> | + | #Pre shrink the linen. Wash it in hot water. Let it dry and then press it with an iron.<ref name="rf3">http://www.stgeorgenorth.org/yahoo_site_admin/assets/docs/How_To_Construct_an_Authentic_Ruff_wth_Pictures_and_FB_Tutorial_and_Diagrams.202202539.pdf</ref> |
#Use a needle to pull the thread from the linen. You’re looking for the true grain of the linen. You don’t want to cut strips from the length-wise grain, as these strips won’t spring up from the neckband of the ruff properly. | #Use a needle to pull the thread from the linen. You’re looking for the true grain of the linen. You don’t want to cut strips from the length-wise grain, as these strips won’t spring up from the neckband of the ruff properly. | ||
#*Draw the thread and then cut along this line. Continue to pull the thread with the needle to get it started. | #*Draw the thread and then cut along this line. Continue to pull the thread with the needle to get it started. | ||
#Cut strips of linen that are 3” wide. A 3” wide strip produces an average 1570s ruff with a finished depth of around 2 ½”. | #Cut strips of linen that are 3” wide. A 3” wide strip produces an average 1570s ruff with a finished depth of around 2 ½”. | ||
| − | #Place two pieces of linen together. Hold them so the edges meet. Thread the needle. The, use a whip stitch<ref>http://www.holiday-crafts-and-creations.com/whip-stitch.html</ref> to attach them. Try to catch the smallest amount of thread possible at the edge of each piece of linen. | + | #Place two pieces of linen together. Hold them so the edges meet. Thread the needle. The, use a whip stitch<ref name="rf4">http://www.holiday-crafts-and-creations.com/whip-stitch.html</ref> to attach them. Try to catch the smallest amount of thread possible at the edge of each piece of linen. |
#*If you do the stitch properly, the stitch should be barely visible from the exposed side of the linen pieces. | #*If you do the stitch properly, the stitch should be barely visible from the exposed side of the linen pieces. | ||
#*There should be a slight ridge on the back side of the linen pieces. | #*There should be a slight ridge on the back side of the linen pieces. | ||
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#Use the sewing machine to finish the raw edges of the linen. This will stop them from unraveling. Try to use the least amount of thread possible as you do not want to add bulk to the ruff. | #Use the sewing machine to finish the raw edges of the linen. This will stop them from unraveling. Try to use the least amount of thread possible as you do not want to add bulk to the ruff. | ||
#*Avoid using a zigzag stitch to finish the edges. The ruff will look less authentic. | #*Avoid using a zigzag stitch to finish the edges. The ruff will look less authentic. | ||
| − | #Gather the linen pieces to form pleats. Use a gathering stitch<ref>http://www.danamadeit.com/2011/05/tutorial-ruffled-streamers.html</ref> to form the pleats of the ruff. | + | #Gather the linen pieces to form pleats. Use a gathering stitch<ref name="rf5">http://www.danamadeit.com/2011/05/tutorial-ruffled-streamers.html</ref> to form the pleats of the ruff. |
#*Run the first line of gathering stitches about ⅛” from the unhemmed edge. | #*Run the first line of gathering stitches about ⅛” from the unhemmed edge. | ||
#*Run another line of gathering threads about ¼” away from the first line of stitches. | #*Run another line of gathering threads about ¼” away from the first line of stitches. | ||
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#Take care of the linen ruff. Be warned that the ruff will likely collapse when it gets wet. So wash linen ruffs in hot water. Then, dry the ruff by rolling it in a dry towel. Linen absorbs a lot of water, so you may need to use a large towel. | #Take care of the linen ruff. Be warned that the ruff will likely collapse when it gets wet. So wash linen ruffs in hot water. Then, dry the ruff by rolling it in a dry towel. Linen absorbs a lot of water, so you may need to use a large towel. | ||
#*Don’t wring out wet linen. Instead, hang dry the ruff. | #*Don’t wring out wet linen. Instead, hang dry the ruff. | ||
| − | #Starch the ruff to keep it pleated and springy. There are two methods of starching:<ref | + | #Starch the ruff to keep it pleated and springy. There are two methods of starching:<ref name="rf3" /> |
#*Cold starch: dissolve raw starch in water and apply it to the fabric. The starch is then “cooked” (turns into a gel) when the linen ruff is ironed. This produces a nice stiff finish, but requires skill so you don’t scorch the fabric or end up with cloth stuck to the iron. | #*Cold starch: dissolve raw starch in water and apply it to the fabric. The starch is then “cooked” (turns into a gel) when the linen ruff is ironed. This produces a nice stiff finish, but requires skill so you don’t scorch the fabric or end up with cloth stuck to the iron. | ||
#*Using boiled starch: Mix two tablespoons of starch (corn, wheat, or rice) in 1 cup of water. Either microwave the starch on high or heat it on the stove. Stir it until it becomes thick and transparent. | #*Using boiled starch: Mix two tablespoons of starch (corn, wheat, or rice) in 1 cup of water. Either microwave the starch on high or heat it on the stove. Stir it until it becomes thick and transparent. | ||
