Difference between revisions of "Make Sterling Silver Jewelry"

#*You can purchase this in lump form for sculpting, as a softer paste extruded from a syringe for finer detail work, or even in "paper" form for origami designs.<ref name="rf1">http://www.metalclayguru.com/what-is-metal-clay/</ref><ref name="rf2">http://www.silver-clay.com/</ref>

#Form the clay into the design of your choice. You can sculpt this clay with hands or ordinary sculpting tools, add detail with a knife or wire, or cut it into shapes with stencils.<ref name="rf3">http://www.metalclayacademy.com/metal-clay-resources/metal-clay-beginners-information.html</ref>

#*The silver clay will shrink during firing, so make the jewelry slightly on the large side. Check the label for details, as shrinking can vary from 8% to 30% between products.<ref name="rf1" />

#*You can push a metal stamp or any metal object into the clay to form a surface design.<ref name="rf4">http://searchwarp.com/swa281588.htm</ref>

#Fire the clay with a torch. If using a torch, place the clay on a heat brick, and the brick on a heat-safe surface. Hold the torch flame ¾ inch (2 cm) from the clay and heat until it catches fire, burns out, glows red, then reaches an even glow. Continue to heat for at least five minutes, or however long your clay instructions recommend.<ref name="rf5">http://www.silver-clay.com/firing.html</ref>

#* After the clay has burned off completely, turn up the burner and heat until the silver glows red. Turn it down again if it glows orange.<ref name="rf5" />

#*The optimal firing temperature for most silver clay is 1650ºF (900ºC), held for 2 hours, but the jewelry might come out strong enough even at temperatures as low as 1200ºF (650ºC).<ref name="rf6">http://www.cooltools.us/The-Ultimate-Silver-Metal-Clay-Firing-Guide-s/1219.htm</ref><ref name="rf7">http://www.silverclay.co.uk/firi.htm</ref>

#Quench the silver (optional). Letting the silver cool on its own is recommended. If you are in a rush, you can quench the hot silver in cool water to bring it down in temperature, although it may still not be safe to touch for a few minutes. This can cause structural issues if reheated for adjustment later, but thorough drying can prevent this.<ref name="rf8">http://www.metalclayacademy.com/kbase/users/kb.php?category_id=10</ref>

#*Never quench jewelry with embedded glass, precious stones, or other additions.<ref name="rf7" />

#*Sterling silver may be labeled "ster" or ".925."<ref name="rf9">http://www.bluenile.com/silver-jewelry/silver-education</ref>

#*A small buffing machine with canton flannel wheels (or a bench grinder with the grinding wheel replaced)<ref name="rf10">http://www.caswellplating.com/buffman.htm</ref>

#*Jeweler's rouge or blue polishing compound. (Scratched silver may require white rouge or brown Tripoli polishing compound instead.<ref name="rf11">http://www.pjtool.com/jewelers-rouge-chart.aspx</ref>)

#Polish the jewelry on the buffing machine. Following your model's instructions is recommended. Generally speaking, the jeweler turns on the machine and applies polish (jeweler's rouge) sparingly to the wheel. Gently touch the jewelry to the surface of the wheel to smooth out rough edges and polish the surface.<ref name="rf12">http://www.pjtool.com/metal-buffing-polishing-directions.aspx</ref>

#Wash in warm soapy water. This will remove polish residue. Dry with a soft, clean cloth, preferably wool or chamois.<ref name="rf12" />

#Add gemstone or glass (optional). These are best added to jewelry with a two-part epoxy glue. Solder a silver "bezel cup" to the jewelry, sand the walls down if necessary with coarse sandpaper, then glue in the stone and let dry as instructed by the epoxy label.<ref name="rf13">http://www.hgtv.com/design/make-and-celebrate/handmade/how-to-make-sterling-silver-and-gem-flower-jewelry</ref>

#Hammer silver wire into jewelry. Silver is quite malleable, and thick silver wire is often shaped into necklaces or arm bands. Simple lay the wire on a small anvil or other flat, hard metal surface and tap repeatedly and gently with a mallet or hammer into the desired shape.<ref name="rf14">http://www.riogrande.com/Content/Forged-Neck-Wire-VID-psd?Pos=22</ref>

#Use different hammers for different effects. For precise control, you can use several hammers, most commonly a flat mallet and a round ball peen hammer, or a couple examples of each in different sizes.<ref name="rf14" /> Once the shape is complete, you can use a texturing hammer to alter the surface feel, or a planishing hammer to smooth out the dents on a bent or curved surface.<ref name="rf15">http://www.jewelrymakingdaily.com/blogs/daily/archive/2011/12/21/jewelry-tools-101-guide-to-jewelry-making-hammers.aspx</ref>

#Try hot forging. This is not a common approach for silver, since it can be manipulated while cold. However, if you have some experience under your belt and want to experiment with tight, intricate curves, hot forging could be the next step. You'll need a small gas forge — or possibly an electric oven with excellent temperature control — able to heat the silver to a cherry-red glow and keep it stable at that temperature while you manipulate it with pliers and hammering.<ref name="rf16">http://www.artmetal.com/blog/mike_m/2007/06/hot_forging_silver</ref>