Difference between revisions of "Kill Tree Roots"

#Cut small problem roots. Although labor-intensive, this directly addresses the issue with no risk to nearby plants. Dig out the soil around and under the root first, then cut with a root saw or loppers.<ref name="rf1">http://www.treeremoval.com/tree-cutting/tree-roots/</ref> Cutting roots aggressively can put the tree in a long decline, potentially killing it over many years.<ref name="rf2">http://hort.ufl.edu/woody/disturbing.shtml</ref> Follow these rules of thumb to prevent this:

#*Multiply the diameter of the tree by eight. That's the minimum distance from the trunk you can cut with low risk of serious harm.<ref name="rf1" />

#*Cut roots on one side of the tree only, especially if you're risking a cut closer than the minimum distance.<ref name="rf3">http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/trees-shrubs/protecting-trees-from-construction-damage/</ref>

#[[Make-a-Trench|Dig a trench to block roots]]. Cutting roots once is only a temporary solution. To maintain the area, you may need to dig a trench and cut away the roots annually — or up to twice a year for aggressive root systems.<ref name="rf4">http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/2005/100105.html</ref> You can save yourself from this chore if you dig one deep trench (ideally through the entire topsoil), then install one of these barriers before backfilling:

#*Galvanized metal roofing. Fold the top over to avoid a dangerous sharp edge.<ref name="rf5">http://learn.eartheasy.com/2014/07/how-to-block-tree-roots-from-entering-your-garden/</ref>

#*A double layer of HDPE plastic,<div style="background-color:#D2E9B8; color:#000; margin:0px; width:40%; padding:2px; float:right; border:5px; border-style:solid; border-color:#93B874; {{border-radius|15px}}">Overlap sections of barrier by at least 12" (30 cm) so roots can't slip through.</div> sometimes available free from feed stores<ref name="rf5" />

#*For best results, buy a commercial root barrier treated with herbicide. Trifluralin is a common option unlikely to harm nearby plants.<ref name="rf4" />

#Kill suckers with herbicide. Some trees respond to cut roots or other damage by sending up new suckers from the root system. To kill these selectively, sever the root so the herbicide does not travel to the main tree. Apply an herbicide that contains glyphosate or triclopyr amine carefully to the sucker so it does not spray to nearby plants.<ref name="rf6">https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=260</ref> Many suckering plants grow aggressively. If you are not willing to kill the main tree, you will need to repeat this treatment or periodically dig up the suckers by hand.

#*If you've cut down the main tree but suckers are still appearing in your yard, your only option may be to apply a broadleaf herbicide. This will kill all vegetation in the area. Repeat each time suckers appear until the roots run out of nutrients.<ref name="rf7">http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/2004/071704.html</ref>

#Replace damaged pavement with crushed stone or mulch. It may not be possible to kill large surface roots without killing the whole tree. If that's not an option, you can install a surface the tree cannot break through. Since this does not kill the roots, it will not protect garden areas or sewage pipes.<ref name="rf8">http://www.gfc.state.ga.us/community-forests/ask-the-arborist/treeroots-driveways-sidewalks.pdf</ref>

#*Cover the area with geotextile fabric. Leave 6" (15 cm) of clear ground around the trunk, or 12" (30 cm) for large trees.<ref name="rf9">http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2011/11/14/mulch-can-kill-trees/</ref>

#Pour copper sulfate or rock salt down your toilet. This is the easiest treatment, but it risks killing the whole tree or surrounding plants. Flush either product down your toilet bowl (never into a sink or shower) in ½ lb (¼ kg) increments or less, until you've added 2 lb (0.9 kg). Avoid running water into the pipe for 8–12 hours so the salt has time to kill the roots.<ref name="rf10">http://www.superterry.com/kill-tree-roots-sewer-line/</ref> Follow all safety information on the label.<br><div style="background-color:#ff9999; margin:0px; width:90%; border:2px; border-style:solid; border-color:#000; padding:3px; {{border-radius|4px}}; display:inline-block; float:right;">Both chemicals can cause major damage to aquatic life. Their use may be regulated by your state or country, especially near water treatment plants.<ref name="rf11">http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/license/pubs/sewrline.pdf</ref><ref name="rf12">http://www.deercreekalliance.org/pollution</ref></div>

#Treat your pipes with a foaming herbicide. Foaming herbicides expand to fill the pipe and take some time to break down, making them the best option for sewage line root removal. Contact herbicides kill the roots quickly, while systemic herbicides can take a couple weeks but may kill the whole tree. Different foam consistencies are appropriate for different sizes of pipe, so read the label before buying.<ref name="rf11" />

#Have a professional clear clogged pipes mechanically. If roots have clogged a pipe completely, they will block the flow of chemical treatments.<ref name="rf11" /> Hire a plumber instead to clear the pipe with a Roto Rooter or similar mechanical tool. This also has the advantage of avoiding environmental impacts from herbicide.

#Repair the pipe. Unless you're willing to repeat this treatment regularly, the cleared pipe will need structural repairs to prevent root regrowth. Installing a lining inside your pipe requires less digging and disruption, but a complete pipe replacement is often cheaper.<ref name="rf11" />

#*Elms, cherries, plums, and lilac trees can regenerate from roots after the trunk is damaged.<ref name="rf6" /> Use herbicides instead.

#*Aspens, poplars, sumac, and black locust form "clonal colonies" of many trunks during normal growth.<ref name="rf13">http://www.nativetreesociety.org/multi/index_multi.htm</ref> Their roots are very difficult to control even with herbicides.<ref name="rf14">https://journals.uair.arizona.edu/index.php/rangelands/article/download/10762/10035</ref> A local agricultural extension can recommend an effective herbicide treatment for your species.

#Cut the tree to a stump. If the tree still needs to be cut down, cut it so about {{convert|3|-|4|ft|m|1}} of the trunk is still left above ground. This ensures that you have enough wood to grab onto to pull the trunk out of the ground.<br><div style="background-color:#ff9999; margin:0px; width:90%; border:2px; border-style:solid; border-color:#000; padding:3px; {{border-radius|4px}}; display:inline-block; float:right;"><b>Warning:</b> Felling a tree is very dangerous. If you do not have experience and the proper tools, the tree may fall in an unexpected direction.<ref name="rf15">http://www.treeremoval.com/tree-removal-safety-guide/</ref> Hire a professional if you have not done this before.</div>

#*Before taking a chainsaw to a root, place a board underneath it. This protects the chainsaw from dirt and rocks.<ref name="rf16">http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2010-11-12/classified/sc-home-1108-diy-clearing-stumps-20101112_1_stump-natural-approach-roots</ref>

#*Once you've made some progress on the hole, spray the area with a hose or pressure washer to reveal more roots.<ref name="rf17">http://www.treeremoval.com/stump-removal/</ref>

#Grind a stump down if necessary. Some large stumps may not budge even with a winch. For these, you'll need to rent a stump grinder (or hire a professional). These are dangerous machines, so wear protective glasses and ask the rental agency to train you. Here's the basic process:<ref name="rf18">http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/lawn-garden/how-to/a129/stump-grinder-tips/</ref>

#*Repeat the process until the whole stump is ground at least 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) below the ground, or deeper if you want to plant a new tree.<ref name="rf19">https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=229</ref>

#Fill hole. Pull out any remaining tree roots and fill in the hole where the tree was with soil. Plant grass seed on the top, water it, and you’re set to have a tree-free area that blends in with the rest of your yard.<ref name="rf20">http://www.umass.edu/urbantree/factsheets/26killastump.html</ref> The tree's roots should stop growing and eventually decompose.

#Know the risks. Roots of the same species often grow together when they touch. This means that an herbicide applied to one beech tree might spread through the roots and end up killing more beech trees in the same area.<ref name="rf21">http://arnoldia.arboretum.harvard.edu/pdf/articles/1989-49-4-tree-roots-facts-and-fallacies.pdf</ref> This is especially likely with species that can form "clonal colonies," including aspens and black locust.

#Select an herbicide. Herbicides that contain glyphosate or triclopyr amine are effective at killing trees and available at garden stores.<ref name="rf22">http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ag259</ref> Your species may respond to one of these more than the other. For example, glyphosate may do a better job controlling Russian olive, while triclopyr is the better choice for locust, maple, oak, and willow.<ref name="rf23">http://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1401.pdf</ref>

#*Triclopyr amine should work at concentrations of 8.8%.<ref name="rf22" /> For glyphosate, try to find a concentration of about 40%, then dilute with an equal amount of water. If that isn't available, apply undiluted product with at least 20% concentration.<ref name="rf24">http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1465/ANR-1465-low.pdf</ref>

#*Herbicides containing 2,4-D, dicamba, or picloram are risky, as they may spread to nearby vegetation and kill it as well. This shouldn't happen with careful application of glyphosate or triclopyr.<ref name="rf23" />

#Wear safety equipment. Follow the herbicide label instructions to prevent dangerous exposure to the chemicals. At minimum, wear long sleeves and pants, closed-toe shoes, latex or nitrile gloves, and safety goggles.<ref name="rf23" /> Choose clothes you don't mind ruining.

#*You do not need to wear a mask, since you will not be spraying herbicide into the air.<ref name="rf25">http://www.fao.org/WAICENT/FAOINFO/AGRICULT/AGP/AGPC/doc/PUBLICAT/FAOBUL3/B3014.htm</ref>

#Apply herbicide to a stump. This treatment should prevent all or most of the roots from spreading and growing new suckers after a tree is cut down. It does require a fresh cut surface, but as long as the tree was cut less than a few weeks ago, you can create a new one:<ref name="rf19" /><ref name="rf22" />

#*Dispose of the paintbrush and empty herbicide containers at a hazardous waste center.<ref name="rf26">http://earth911.com/recycling-guide/how-to-recycle-pesticides-containers/</ref>

#Kill a tree with herbicide. This is an easy alternative to chopping down the tree, although it may not be safe if the dying tree could drop branches on a path or road. Also, this may not work in springtime on trees that produce a lot of sap, since that tends to push out the herbicide. If neither of these are issues, apply herbicide with the "hack and squirt" system:<ref name="rf27">http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ag245</ref>

#*Some extra-aggressive trees require [[Kill-a-Tree#Girdling_the_Tree_sub|girdling]] instead, with herbicide applied to the freshly exposed wood.<ref name="rf28">http://soundnativeplants.com/wp-content/uploads/Girdling.pdf</ref>

**Girdling, or removing a deep ring of bark from a trunk, cuts off the flow of nutrients from leaves to roots.<ref name="rf29">http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf99242809/pdf99242809pt01.pdf</ref> Unless combined with herbicide, this can take years to kill a large tree.<ref name="rf30">http://www.nwtree.com/blog/kill-tree-roots-naturally/</ref>

**Burying the roots around the trunk with mulch leaves it vulnerable and stressed, but may take years to kill the tree.<ref name="rf9" />

**Burning a stump or burying it in compost or fertilizer are slow methods of removal.<ref name="rf19" /> For example, burning a stump takes longer than some other methods because you have to wait for the stump to dry out.

*Rain within six hours of applying herbicide may wash it away.<ref name="rf24" />