Difference between revisions of "Inlay Wood"
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#Cut the inlay into a simple shape. You may already have a piece in the size or shape you desire. If not, saw it into a simple shape. | #Cut the inlay into a simple shape. You may already have a piece in the size or shape you desire. If not, saw it into a simple shape. | ||
#*Wear a respirator dust mask whenever you saw mother of pearl or other material that produces dangerous, sharp dust. | #*Wear a respirator dust mask whenever you saw mother of pearl or other material that produces dangerous, sharp dust. | ||
| − | #*Any type of sharp, well maintained saw will cut mother of pearl, but you should periodically dip the mother of pearl in water to prevent burn marks.<ref>http://www.knifehandles.com/mother-of-pearl-types/working-with-mother-of-pearl</ref> | + | #*Any type of sharp, well maintained saw will cut mother of pearl, but you should periodically dip the mother of pearl in water to prevent burn marks.<ref name="rf1">http://www.knifehandles.com/mother-of-pearl-types/working-with-mother-of-pearl</ref> |
#*Limit yourself to simple freehand cutouts or tracing small geometric designs. See the instructions for complex designs if you want something more ornate. | #*Limit yourself to simple freehand cutouts or tracing small geometric designs. See the instructions for complex designs if you want something more ornate. | ||
#Stick the piece temporarily onto the base. You can use double-sided tape or a tacky glue that takes a long time to set. This will keep the inlaid piece steady for you to trace and cut around. | #Stick the piece temporarily onto the base. You can use double-sided tape or a tacky glue that takes a long time to set. This will keep the inlaid piece steady for you to trace and cut around. | ||
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#*Only cut into the wood just deep enough to fit the entire inlaid piece. If you end up slightly shallow, you can sand the inlaid piece down. If you end up too deep, you'll have to sand the entire wooden surface to make it flush. | #*Only cut into the wood just deep enough to fit the entire inlaid piece. If you end up slightly shallow, you can sand the inlaid piece down. If you end up too deep, you'll have to sand the entire wooden surface to make it flush. | ||
#Remove the inlay and cut out the wood beneath. Now that the edge is established, you can make a recess where the inlaid object will fit. Be careful not to cut too deeply. | #Remove the inlay and cut out the wood beneath. Now that the edge is established, you can make a recess where the inlaid object will fit. Be careful not to cut too deeply. | ||
| − | #*Small simple designs can be recessed using hand tools such as a router plane, chisel, or sharp knife. Larger or more intricate recesses will be faster and easier to create with a power tool such as a Dremel, laminate trimmer, or full size router.<ref>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/router-based-inlay/</ref> | + | #*Small simple designs can be recessed using hand tools such as a router plane, chisel, or sharp knife. Larger or more intricate recesses will be faster and easier to create with a power tool such as a Dremel, laminate trimmer, or full size router.<ref name="rf2">http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/router-based-inlay/</ref> |
#*If you used double sided tape, you may need to wiggle a putty knife or other flat, wide blade beneath the inlaid object to pull it away from the base. | #*If you used double sided tape, you may need to wiggle a putty knife or other flat, wide blade beneath the inlaid object to pull it away from the base. | ||
#Smooth the recessed area. Use a small piece of sandpaper to flatten out the base and edges after the majority of the wood is removed. | #Smooth the recessed area. Use a small piece of sandpaper to flatten out the base and edges after the majority of the wood is removed. | ||
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#Apply glue liberally and attach. Cover the recess and the bottom of the inlay with glue and stick the pieces together. Hammer gently with the handle of a tool to push it down to the base of the recess. | #Apply glue liberally and attach. Cover the recess and the bottom of the inlay with glue and stick the pieces together. Hammer gently with the handle of a tool to push it down to the base of the recess. | ||
#Make final adjustments. Clean off the excess glue, but not the glue in the gap between the two materials. If the inlay is slightly raised above the surface, sand it down until it's flush with the surface of the wooden base. | #Make final adjustments. Clean off the excess glue, but not the glue in the gap between the two materials. If the inlay is slightly raised above the surface, sand it down until it's flush with the surface of the wooden base. | ||
| − | #*Use 220 grit sandpaper or finer to keep the inlay nice and polished.<ref>http://www.instructables.com/id/Handcut-inlay/step2/create-a-design/</ref> | + | #*Use 220 grit sandpaper or finer to keep the inlay nice and polished.<ref name="rf3">http://www.instructables.com/id/Handcut-inlay/step2/create-a-design/</ref> |
===Inlaying Complex Designs=== | ===Inlaying Complex Designs=== | ||
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#*Avoid tiny pieces and complex lines until you are a skilled inlayer. | #*Avoid tiny pieces and complex lines until you are a skilled inlayer. | ||
#*Consider which materials you'll use for each piece. Use multiple inlay materials for better contrast and aesthetic. | #*Consider which materials you'll use for each piece. Use multiple inlay materials for better contrast and aesthetic. | ||
| − | #Make several copies of your design. Cutting each piece of your inlay out from its own sheet of tracing paper ensures you'll end up with pieces of the correct size. Leave yourself at least one "master design" sheet that won't be cut at all.<ref | + | #Make several copies of your design. Cutting each piece of your inlay out from its own sheet of tracing paper ensures you'll end up with pieces of the correct size. Leave yourself at least one "master design" sheet that won't be cut at all.<ref name="rf3" /> |
| − | #Trace the design onto the wood. Place your master design sheet over carbon paper and trace it again to mark the design onto the wood you want to inlay.<ref | + | #Trace the design onto the wood. Place your master design sheet over carbon paper and trace it again to mark the design onto the wood you want to inlay.<ref name="rf2" /> |
#*You may also wish to include a few "reference marks" around the design to help you orient yourself while inlaying. | #*You may also wish to include a few "reference marks" around the design to help you orient yourself while inlaying. | ||
#*If you don't have any carbon paper, cut out one of your copies and tape it in place, then trace around it onto the wood. You'll then need to cut out each piece and tape it within the larger design, tracing around its edge as well. | #*If you don't have any carbon paper, cut out one of your copies and tape it in place, then trace around it onto the wood. You'll then need to cut out each piece and tape it within the larger design, tracing around its edge as well. | ||
#Cut out each paper segment from separate copies. Cutting them all from one trace will result in undersized pieces. Number each one on its surface and on the master design sheet in the order you'll be inlaying them. Start with the furthest background elements and move to the foreground. | #Cut out each paper segment from separate copies. Cutting them all from one trace will result in undersized pieces. Number each one on its surface and on the master design sheet in the order you'll be inlaying them. Start with the furthest background elements and move to the foreground. | ||
#*Cut your pieces larger on edges that will end up underneath another piece to create an overlapping effect. You can even cut the entire "implied" piece out, such as a leaf that will be half hidden behind another leaf. | #*Cut your pieces larger on edges that will end up underneath another piece to create an overlapping effect. You can even cut the entire "implied" piece out, such as a leaf that will be half hidden behind another leaf. | ||
| − | #Create a fiberboard template (optional). To ensure precisely cut patterns, you can tape your pattern onto a medium density fiberboard (MDF) and cut it out using a table saw, router, circular saw, or jigsaw with the proper technique:<ref>http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-safely-and-cleanly-cut-medium-density-fiberboard#.U5YWWS-VspM</ref> | + | #Create a fiberboard template (optional). To ensure precisely cut patterns, you can tape your pattern onto a medium density fiberboard (MDF) and cut it out using a table saw, router, circular saw, or jigsaw with the proper technique:<ref name="rf4">http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-safely-and-cleanly-cut-medium-density-fiberboard#.U5YWWS-VspM</ref> |
#*'''Only''' use laminate or carbide blades or a carbide drill bit to cut fiberboard. | #*'''Only''' use laminate or carbide blades or a carbide drill bit to cut fiberboard. | ||
#*Use eye protection. | #*Use eye protection. | ||
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#Trace the groove to make it more distinct. Use pencil or chalk to make the groove clearly visible, then erase the surrounding lines. Erase across the groove, not along it. | #Trace the groove to make it more distinct. Use pencil or chalk to make the groove clearly visible, then erase the surrounding lines. Erase across the groove, not along it. | ||
#*Remember not to erase the marks you'll need to place the next pieces. | #*Remember not to erase the marks you'll need to place the next pieces. | ||
| − | #Set up your cutting tool. A full strength router is the most stable way to cut out a recess for your inlay design. If one is not available, use a Dremel with a router attachment, or a lighter, less stable router such as a laminate trimmer.<ref | + | #Set up your cutting tool. A full strength router is the most stable way to cut out a recess for your inlay design. If one is not available, use a Dremel with a router attachment, or a lighter, less stable router such as a laminate trimmer.<ref name="rf2" /> |
#*Set the depth of your cutting tool a hair smaller than the height of your inlay piece – just by one millimeter or 1/32 of an inch. | #*Set the depth of your cutting tool a hair smaller than the height of your inlay piece – just by one millimeter or 1/32 of an inch. | ||
#'''Cut away most of the recess with a 1/8" drill bit (3.0 or 3.5 mm).''' Remove the wooden base to the specified depth, but stay away from the outline. That requires a more precise bit. | #'''Cut away most of the recess with a 1/8" drill bit (3.0 or 3.5 mm).''' Remove the wooden base to the specified depth, but stay away from the outline. That requires a more precise bit. | ||
#'''Cut to the edge using a 1/16" drill bit (1.5 or 1.6 mm).''' Replace the drill bit with a smaller size and very carefully approach the outline of the recess. Stop as soon as you reach the groove. | #'''Cut to the edge using a 1/16" drill bit (1.5 or 1.6 mm).''' Replace the drill bit with a smaller size and very carefully approach the outline of the recess. Stop as soon as you reach the groove. | ||
| − | #*When you stop seeing dust and rough, frayed wood appear at the surface, stop immediately. You've reached the groove you created.<ref | + | #*When you stop seeing dust and rough, frayed wood appear at the surface, stop immediately. You've reached the groove you created.<ref name="rf2" /> |
#*This is much easier to see with a magnifying headset. | #*This is much easier to see with a magnifying headset. | ||
#Glue the piece in. Liberally apply glue to the base of the recess and use a brush to ensure it covers the sides as well. | #Glue the piece in. Liberally apply glue to the base of the recess and use a brush to ensure it covers the sides as well. | ||
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#Clamp in place and let dry. Clamp the inlay to something the glue won't adhere to, such as a wooden block covered with tape. Leave it in place for 4–6 hours or for however long your glue takes to set. | #Clamp in place and let dry. Clamp the inlay to something the glue won't adhere to, such as a wooden block covered with tape. Leave it in place for 4–6 hours or for however long your glue takes to set. | ||
#Level the surface. Remove hardened excess glue and make the inlay flush with the object's surface by using sandpaper, an inlay scraper, or a block plane. | #Level the surface. Remove hardened excess glue and make the inlay flush with the object's surface by using sandpaper, an inlay scraper, or a block plane. | ||
| − | #*For mother of pearl or abalone, polish additionally with 300 grit sandpaper after flattening the surface with a coarser grit.<ref | + | #*For mother of pearl or abalone, polish additionally with 300 grit sandpaper after flattening the surface with a coarser grit.<ref name="rf3" /> |
#Cut and place additional pieces. Move on to your next labeled segment and follow the same process to cut out that piece and inlay it. Remember, your previous piece was intentionally large to make a flush, overlapping effect once you've cut into it for the piece above it. | #Cut and place additional pieces. Move on to your next labeled segment and follow the same process to cut out that piece and inlay it. Remember, your previous piece was intentionally large to make a flush, overlapping effect once you've cut into it for the piece above it. | ||
#*Remember only to make oversized pieces on edges that will be underneath another segment. The other edges should fit your design as precisely as possible. | #*Remember only to make oversized pieces on edges that will be underneath another segment. The other edges should fit your design as precisely as possible. | ||
== Tips == | == Tips == | ||
| − | * Alternatively, you can glue all your pieces together first, let them set, then sand or file off the excess glue. The entire inlay can know be placed as though it were one piece. It won't appear as flush as the "overlapping" method described, but it will save a lot of waiting time for projects with many pieces.<ref | + | * Alternatively, you can glue all your pieces together first, let them set, then sand or file off the excess glue. The entire inlay can know be placed as though it were one piece. It won't appear as flush as the "overlapping" method described, but it will save a lot of waiting time for projects with many pieces.<ref name="rf3" /> |
* Sand the edge of the inlay at an angle to create a bevel if it doesn’t quite fit in the recessed area. | * Sand the edge of the inlay at an angle to create a bevel if it doesn’t quite fit in the recessed area. | ||
* You can buy a wood inlay kit for some routers that allow you to cut the recess, then remove the surrounding "bushing" to cut a perfectly sized inlay. These work best with materials between 1/4" and 1/8" thick (3 to 6 mm), and are easier to use with plunge routers than fixed base router. | * You can buy a wood inlay kit for some routers that allow you to cut the recess, then remove the surrounding "bushing" to cut a perfectly sized inlay. These work best with materials between 1/4" and 1/8" thick (3 to 6 mm), and are easier to use with plunge routers than fixed base router. | ||
