Fix a Broken Window in a Wooden Frame

Revision as of 13:30, 15 March 2016 by Kipkis (Kipkis | contribs) (importing article from wikihow)

(diff) ← Older revision | Latest revision (diff) | Newer revision → (diff)

So, someone threw something through a window without opening it first? It's going to cost you a bundle, huh. Nope. You can do it yourself. Really!

Steps

  1. Determine what kind of window or door you're dealing with; building codes in your area will likely require tempered glass in your storm windows and doors, but you may be able to use regular pane glass for inside (not storm) windows and doors. Be sure to check local codes.
  2. Remove the window from the casing if possible; take the door with the broken window off the hinges. Replacing the glass is far easier if the window/door is laying flat on the work surface and is clamped down, caulked side of window facing up. If this isn't possible, you can replace the glass in place; make sure you have a solid footing and are at eye level with the upper third of the pane.
  3. Dispose of the broken glass.
    • Wear protective gloves and remove the broken glass. Put it in a cardboard box or sturdy paper bag.

    • When all the glass is out of the frame, tape the box/bag up for disposal and mark it clearly "Broken Glass." Place the box/bag wherever your trash pickup might be.

    • Use a vacuum to clean up any small shards.
  4. Remove any remaining old caulk with the putty knife. You may need to heat it up with a heat gun to get it completely loose. Also remove any of the old glazier's points from the broken pane; it's a good idea to save them in case they're a different size from the modern points. Use the metal brush to get the surface as clean as possible.
    • Optional step: carefully brush linseed oil on the surfaces that will be holding the caulk. This extends the life of your caulk job, but it takes a day or more to dry, so plan your time accordingly.
  5. Carefully measure the width and length of the opening for the window.
    • Measure at both top and bottom to see if the window is plumb. If the shape of the window isn't square or rectangular, make a paper template.

    • There is a very narrow shelf-type area that the glass lays on; there may also be one side, usually the top, slotted to receive the glass. Remember, you're measuring where the glass lays, not the visual opening.
  6. Go to your friendly neighborhood hardware store or home center and have them cut the glass. The replacement glass should fit on the "shelf" from side to side and top to bottom fairly snugly, but to allow for expansion and contraction, have the glass cut up to 1/8" (.31 cm) smaller on the top and one side.
  7. Insert the glass into the frame.
    • With the frame secured to a flat surface and the bottom of the window closest to you, hold the glass at a slight angle top to bottom.

    • Guide the whole pane slowly on the "shelves" and work toward the top. When you're just about there, carefully lay the glass almost flat, then guide it as you slide it into the groove at the top of the window. You may need to use one hand on top of the glass, the other on the bottom.
  8. Find the spots where the old glazier points were and put in new ones.
  9. Prepare the glazing compound.
    • Open the compound can and put a lump about half the size of a tennis ball (use more when you get the hang of it) into your left hand (right if you're left handed).

    • Work it until it's soft and warm. You may have to replenish the supply in your hand more than once, depending on the size of the window.
  10. Using the flat edge of the glaziers tool or putty knife, scoop off a section of putty from your hand and spread it into the "shelf" area at any point; best not to start in a corner. Using the knife or tool at an angle, smooth the putty along the shelf.
    Be sure that the putty doesn't show from the other side of the window, that is, the width of your putty shouldn't be greater than the shelf width. Continue spreading and smoothing until the sides are covered.
  11. Corners. These can be tricky. Just remember that water will slide down the window and the caulking will guide the water away from the glass. You want the corners to be mitered, but smoothly mitered. Use the angled end of the glaziers tool.
  12. Once you've finished caulking the window, allow it to cure at least a day before cleaning up any spillage on the glass. You'll need to wait up to a week for the putty to cure enough to hold paint.
  13. Congratulations! You've now saved yourself about five times the cost of having the glass replaced by a professional.

Tips

  • If you're really nervous about the process, get an extra pane of glass.
  • If the window is large and heavy, get someone to assist you in moving it to the work surface and back.
  • This process takes some practice, and your first effort may look a little odd. Work first on a window that won't be too noticeable.
  • Stuff happens. Best to have some bandages handy or, worst case scenario, a cordless phone with the emergency number ( e.g. 911, 999, 000 etc.) programmed into it.
  • If you need a ladder to replace the glass, be sure you have someone to spot you/hand you the glass and be sure your ladder is on safe footing. Take your time and be safe.

Warnings

  • Keep kids away from your work area!
  • Wear safety glasses!
  • Dispose of broken glass safely!
  • Glass can be sharp!

Things You'll Need

  • Gloves, leather or thick fabric
  • Measuring tape
  • Glass cut to fit (we'll get to that in a minute)
  • Utility razor knife
  • Putty scraper/knife
  • Wire brush
  • Heat gun (can do without but it's really much easier with it)
  • Linseed oil and brush (optional but recommended)
  • Glaziers points (little tiny metal bits that hold the glass in)
  • Glazier putty or compound (same thing), the premixed kind is best. Get a fresh container if you haven't done a window for a while.
  • A flat surface to work on with room to walk around all sides
  • A place to clean up your hands--make sure you have a grease-cutting soap such as dishwashing liquid handy. A utility sink is preferable.
  • Glass cut to fit. Even the most careful measurements produce glass that doesn't fit. Take the window to the hardware store with you, if possible. If transporting the window or door is impossible, make an accurate paper template. Remember: your 12" by 14" can end up 12.5"x13 if the hardware glass cutting person is having a bad day.

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

Retrieved from "https://kipkis.com/index.php?title=Fix_a_Broken_Window_in_a_Wooden_Frame&oldid=24080"