Care for Your Horse In the Winter

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Caring for horses attentively through winter will help to ensure that they get through the season with relatively few problems. Horses are reasonably hardy in cold temperatures and grow a winter coat for additional warmth. The key to caring for horses in winter is a collection of simple steps involving things such as checking weather forecasts before choosing rugs, making sure they cool down properly after being ridden, ensuring that they're not subjected to drafts, that they're being fed properly, etc. By knowing what actions to take, you can easily care for your horse over the winter.

Steps

Winterizing the Horse’s Living Conditions

  1. Decide whether to bring the horse in or not. Deciding whether to stable your horse or not on a particular night depends on a number of factors, including the age of the horse and the weather. Sick or older horses should always be stabled on nights when severe frosts are forecasted. A healthy, rugged pony, on the other hand, might be okay staying out on a colder night with the correct rug.
    • Your horse will likely need to come in at night at some point over the winter in order to protect him from temperature extremes, harsh wind, and snow. You will find it helpful to develop a routine where the horse goes out during daylight hours and comes back in at night. This allows him to stretch his legs and have a change of scenery, so he is less likely to become bored when stabled.
  2. Provide the correct outdoor environment for the horse. For the times when you do leave the horse outdoors, you need to provide a proper setting to care for the horse. This includes making sure he has access to shelter to get out of wind and rain. This could be a lean-to, a shed, or barn to which the horse has free access and can wander in and out at will.
    • Make sure he has drinking water available at all times as well. In freezing temperatures, this means ensuring the water trough has a heater or a no-freeze device, so the water never freezes over.
  3. Prepare the stable. When preparing the Muck Out a Stable With Shavings or barn for winter, ensure that the horse's quarters are clean, warm, well ventilated, and free from drafts. Clean bedding is a priority, so you should prioritize regular changes of the bedding. Remove anything that might injure or tempt the horse, such as low-hanging lights, nails sticking out, toxic cleaning substances, etc.
    • Bank your horse's bedding up against any doors that lead out to the pasture so drafts don't chill him.
    • Read Winterize a Livestock Barn for more information on this topic.
  4. Give your horse plenty of outdoor time even when stabling during winter. This will help keep your horse healthier because he can breathe fresh air and adjust to the temperature changes on a regular basis.
    • Encourage lots of movement and exercise to keep warm. This is how horses keep warm in the wild.
  5. Use the appropriate blankets for the conditions. Blankets (also known as rugs) come in different weights. There are three main types of blanket for horses: stable blankets, turnout blankets, and sheets.
    • Stable Blankets are lightweight and not waterproof. Never put a stable blanket on a horse that is going out in the rain as it will act as a towel and soak up all the rain. Stable blankets are ideal for a clipped horse to wear in a stable during the winter to keep the chill off.
    • Turnout blankets are made of tougher fabrics than stable blankets and are waterproof. They are designed to have better insulation and keep the horse warmer. They also help keep the rain out.
    • Horse sheets are not as relevant during winter. They are a lightweight cover to keep the horse clean after grooming, such as prior to attending a show.
  6. Don’t overheat your horse. When you touch a horse with your bare hands in winter, it will feel cold to you. In reality, the horse's coat and body heat do a wonderful job of insulating the horse and keeping the warmth directed into the horse. Some experts recommend that blankets only be used on horses with special needs, such as clipped horses, old horses, sick horses, thin horses, rescued horses, horses which seem cold by nature, and horses without shelter. However, this should be balanced against the severity of the weather. In snow and ice, any horse will need to be given a blanket or preferably be brought indoors.
    • If you do use a blanket, keep using it. The horse adapts its temperature regulation to wearing a blanket.
    • Keep in mind that your idea of cold is not your horse's idea of cold. Don’t add too heavy a blanket or too many. Follow the recommended uses of the blanket by the manufacturer according to its weight.
    • Wet cold is worse than dry cold for horses. A good quality waterproof rug is a great investment. This helps to keep your horse dry and reduces heat loss. It is possible to have a rug re-waterproofed, so be sure to keep your equipment maintained and in the best order.
  7. Be aware of possible winter ailments. Horses can easily become sick during winter just like humans. It’s important to know what to look for and how to manage the problems that human intervention can cause.
    • Horses are susceptible to respiratory illnesses during winter. The ammonia buildup, mold, and dust inside barns and stables can bring on a variety of respiratory illnesses. Do your best to prevent this by ensuring adequate ventilation. You also want to clean out the stalls regularly. Give your horse plenty of outdoor opportunities to breathe in fresh air as well.
    • Horses are also susceptible to skin conditions during winter, such as rain-rot, bed itch, ringworm, lice, and infected scratches. Keep the horse clean, groomed, and medicated appropriately. Be careful not to blanket a wet horse. Use breathable blankets that do not cause moisture buildup. See your vet promptly for treatment of skin ailments.
    • Mud fever and rain scald are other specific skin conditions. Rain scald tends to affect the horse's back and rump (where the rain hits) wheres mud fever affects the legs (where the horse stands in mud). The softened skin allows bacteria to invade and set up infection. Crusts, scabs, and swelling develop, and the hair starts to fall out in clumps. You can treat the conditions by washing with a common disinfectant, such as Hibiscrub. However, the horse also needs to be kept in out of the weather for this to be successful.
  8. Spend time with your horse during winter. Even when the weather is foul and bleak, be sure to sit with your horse in the shelter and talk to him, groom him, and just be with him. He'll appreciate your company, and it keeps the two of you connected. It will also help you to look forward to the better winter riding days, and the warmer days to come.
    • Keep a regular grooming time in place during winter, no matter what the weather.
    • If you can't get to your horse as often as you'd like because of winter conditions on roads, etc., have someone else check in on your horse regularly to make sure he's fine.

Feeding Your Horse over Winter

  1. Use good quality hay as the bulk of the horse’s feed. Since your horse’s natural forage—grass—is unavailable, stick with good quality hay as the bulk feed source.[1] In addition you can supplement this with high fiber foods such as sugar beet or alfalfa. These foods take a lot of chewing, which helps keep the horse occupied during the long dark hours of winter.
    • An older horse with poor teeth may struggle with certain food sources. Try feeding older horses on haylage, or you can soak hay cubes to make them easier to chew.[2]
  2. Don’t overfeed your horse. Horses normally burn some reserves of body fat in order to keep warm over winter. If you try to avoid this by feeding energy-dense foods (such as nuts or pellets), they may become over-stimulated and buzzy. This can lead to pent up energy and possible accidents in the stable.[3]
  3. Add mineral supplements to your horse’s feed. With hay as the main food source for your horse over the winter, you may want to add vitamin or mineral supplements in order to keep the horse healthy without overfeeding.[4] This will provide the horse with everything it needs nutritionally without adding the extra calories or too many nuts or mixes.
    • Consult your veterinarian and the recommended servings for supplements based on what you add to your horse’s diet.

Riding Your Horse during the Winter

  1. Ride several times each week. Aim for four to six hours weekly of riding during winter. This is especially important if you're a competition rider or want to ensure that young horses get used to the work required of them.[5]
  2. Use common sense when determining riding conditions. Generally speaking, if the conditions aren’t safe for you to Ride a Horse in the Winter, then they won’t be safe for your horse either. There is no temperature bar to riding a horse, provided that it’s not too cold for you and that your horse has adapted to the temperature, which requires regular outings. This means avoid riding during fierce cold winds, severe thunderstorms, or blizzards.
    • Winter means longer driving times, longer preparation times, and shorter days. Be aware of the time constraints affecting your ability to ride your horse and care for him and plan accordingly.
    • Always remember to take a fully charged cell phone and try to stick within a signal area, so you can easily call for help. Remember, in winter, hypothermia can set in very quickly.
  3. Take proper care of your horse’s hooves. Mud buildup in the hooves can cause serious thrush infections. Well-trimmed hooves additionally have a better grip on icy surfaces than neglected hooves do.
    • If your area necessitates it, you should also invest in a hoof pick to take with you on rides. This tool allows you to remove ice and snow packed into your horse’s hooves as necessary.
  4. Prepare for your chosen terrain. Even before you get your horse ready for riding, check the terrain and pasture where you plan to ride your horse. Look for ice or deep mud hazards that could cause your horse to slip or trip and make plans to avoid those areas. Add de-icing agents, such as salt or sawdust, to slippery zones around the stable, tacking areas, gateways, doorways, etc.
  5. Warm the bit before you tack up. Run hot water over your horse’s bit or use a non-toxic hand warmer gel. If you don't have access to either, remove the bit from the bridle and put it in your pocket close to your skin as you prepare everything else. You can also breathe on the bit to warm it.
    • Another alternative is to use a sweet iron bit. This isn't as harsh and doesn't become as cold as normal steel.
  6. Clean out your horse's hooves well. In addition to packing a hoof pick, add a layer of non-stick cooking spray or petroleum jelly to your horse's hooves. This will prevent balls of ice and snow from forming in the hooves.
  7. Groom your horse. This is not only good for warming the horse's muscles, but serves as an excellent warm-up workout for you too.[6]
  8. Consider using an exercise sheet to prevent the horse’s muscles from becoming cold while riding. This is especially important for a clipped or thin-skinned horse, or a horse that as been restricted to a stable. Use it while tacking up as well as riding.
  9. Tack up. Find a clear, clean spot to tack up. Avoid muddy or icy spots and find an area that has good footing. The same requirements apply to the riding area itself.
  10. Choose your riding area carefully. Pitfalls for riding during winter are varied depending on whether you're riding in snow or in more temperate muddy, cold temperatures. Things to watch out for include:
    • Deep snow, especially where it conceals holes, tree wells, and crevices where your horse could slip down.
    • Ice. Any ice is potentially dangerous as your horse has no grip or traction.
    • Mud. While a little mud is fine, a lot of mud can cause the horse to become bogged or to trip. Mud can also conceal objects that might harm your horse. Large areas of mud are best avoided.
    • Wet slopes. Take care riding a horse down a wet slope, as it is easy to lose grip, especially when going fast, and moving over wet stony or rocky areas.
    • Never canter or gallop your horse in snowy, muddy, icy, or slick terrain.
  11. Cool down your horse properly after your ride. This is a time when the horse can get a chill, moving from being very hot and sweaty to being cold. You want to cool the horse down as well as taking other precautions before stabling him.[7]
    • This is also a good time to groom the horse again. This also helps his muscles to cool down more slowly in addition to removing mud from his legs, which can cause irritation and mud rash.
    • Feel your horse’s ears as you cool him down. If they’re still hot, then you should continue walking the horse for a few more minutes. They should be cool, not cold nor hot. Cold ears mean a cold horse.
  12. Brush off snow. Any snow that has attached to your horse (especially his legs) should be brushed off. Try to do this outside to prevent taking it indoors where it can melt and become slippery.
  13. Clean the horse’s hooves. Clean the hooves out the same as you did before the ride, and apply another layer of non-stick cooking spray or petroleum jelly to the hooves. This helps protect the hooves for any time the horse walks around between rides.
  14. Keep Yourself and Your Horse Safe in the Rain. You should dry a wet horse after riding in winter. There can be snow, rain, and sweat combining to make for a very wet horse. Take a towel in each hand and rub the towels over his coat in circular motions. Roughing the hair up will help dry it faster.
    • If your horse is used to a blow dryer, you might consider using this as well.
  15. Brush or curry your horse once he is dry. This will separate the hairs and help to keep him warm, as body heat warms the air between the coat and skin.
  16. Return your horse to his stables, barn, or field. Ensure that there is adequate food and water. Give him hay to eat, as eating roughage warms him quickly, releasing heat as it's digested.
    • If blanketing your horse, ensure that the animal is completely dry before doing so.
    • Be sure to check that the drinking water supplied is not frozen. Horses will drink more water if it is warmed, reducing their risk of Recognize and Treat Colic in Horses brought on by dehydration.[8]

Video

Tips

  • Make sure your horse has access to clean, fresh drinking water and forage all the time.
  • Trim any fetlock hair to prevent mud fever.
  • Use sawdust on mats, trailers, and entrance ways to prevent slippage in icy and snow conditions.
  • For you: wear layers of clothing. Your inner layers should wick. You'll sweat too when mucking out the stables, riding, and working with your horse. And take water for you when riding; it's harder to feel dehydration coming on during winter but it's as real an issue as any other time of the year, so keep your fluid intake up.
  • Tack should be dried in a warm, dry area out of direct sunlight. Be sure that it is not somewhere damp, or mildew can start to grow on the leather.
  • Turn your horse out in turn out boots to keep his legs clean and dry.
  • If your horse becomes sweaty when being ridden, consider having him clipped.
  • Peanut oil on the outside of the hooves keeps them sturdy and retains their moisture in the winter.
  • Lightly wipe coconut oil around horses mouth, so drool doesn't freeze and crack lips.

Warnings

  • Put down salt at the yard to prevent ice forming.
  • Always wear the correct safety gear, including helmet and boots.
  • Some horses try to protect their owners and themselves by avoiding mud puddles and ice, be aware of this and be careful that they don't catch you off guard.
  • Greasing a horse’s soles, helps, but doesn’t totally prevent snow balling. Check the hooves regularly during the ride.
  • Hard, frozen ground puts more stress on the horse’s legs. Avoid high-impact work.
  • Be vigilant about barn, stable, or shed safety. Don't overload electrical circuits using kettles, heaters, machinery, lighting, etc. and be sure there are no dangling cords that can be tripped over or chewed.
  • Horses that are stabled for long periods are more likely to be frisky. Lunge them before you ride if they seem too hyper.
  • Be sure to check your tack before you start riding. You don't want to be riding in the far fields and find out that you stirrup leather is about to break.

Things You'll Need

  • Horse blanket (optional) - breathable, with nylon layer for waterproofing if needed
  • Heated drinking trough
  • Heating
  • Fresh straw for bedding
  • Safety cupboard for anything toxic so that it cannot be accessed by horses
  • Cooking spray or petroleum jelly
  • Salt, sawdust, etc., for icy ground
  • Hoof cleaning equipment
  • Winter riding gear
  • Horse grooming gear

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