Fumigate Wood

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Sawdust around your home is a sign of infestation. Place your ear against the walls or other wooden objects. You may hear the ticking sound of termites. These pests feed on damp or unprotected wood and are tough to remove. Treat smaller areas of infestation by applying a borate and water mixture or through exposure to extreme temperatures. Gas fumigation is a catch-all approach that is best done by a professional. Secure the area so that the fumigant can’t escape, then leave the gas there for up to three days.

Steps

Spot Treating with Borate and Heat

  1. Mix borate and water. Find a borate chemical wherever pest control products are sold. Look for Timbor, Boracare, or a similar product. Follow the directions on their label for use. Typically, these products are a powder that you must combine with an equal amount of water in a handheld sprayer.[1]
    • Borate works best in wood that won’t be exposed to water. It is a chemical that is not a threat to your health, unlike gas fumigants.
  2. Spray the mixture over the wood. Use the handheld sprayer or brush to apply the chemical. Cover any sides of the wood you can reach. This is difficult in homes, where most of the wood will be covered, so it’s best to apply borate when the house is framed.[2]
    • If your wood furniture has varnish, you’ll need to strip the varnish so the borate can soak into the wood. Scrape off the varnish or apply a chemical stripper.
    • Any stains left by the borate should be wiped up with warm water before the finish is reapplied.
  3. Protect the wood from water. Water washes the borate off the wood. To ensure it soaks in, cover the wood with a tarp. Move furniture to a safe storage area. Make sure there’s no dampness or leaks in the area.[3]
  4. Seal the wood with a penetrating water repellant. Get a product such as Thompson’s or Rainguard. Spray or brush it onto the wood. Read the directions on the label to find out how often the repellant needs to be reapplied. The repellent will keep the borate inside the wood even when exposed to water.
  5. Heat or freeze wood. If borate isn’t enough, or you don’t want to strip the finish on the wood, extreme temperatures can help. You will have to treat the wood in a kiln, heating chamber, or freezer. The object would have to be heated for one and a half hours at 150℉ (66℃) or frozen at -4℉ (-20℃) for a week. Search your area for commercial treatment areas if you don’t have the space or tools to do it yourself.[4]
    • The wood must sealed in a bag before freezing to protect it from moisture.
    • Extreme temperatures can warp and otherwise damage wood.

Gassing Large Areas

  1. Research fumigation laws in your area. Fumigation will likely be regulated by your government. The gasses used are highly toxic. Enclosed areas under fumigation, such as homes, are not safe to enter. No matter the laws in your area, having a professional handle fumigation is always the best plan.
  2. Clear the area before treatment begins. Anything alive must be removed from the treatment area. This includes family, pets, plants, and seeds. Remove any opened food and medicine containers. You may also bring non-infested items such as clothing and toys so they aren’t fumigated.[5]
    • Items that will stay in the area can be protected. Seal them in glass, metal, or gas-resistant bags.
    • Fumigants are toxic. It is possible for a gas such as Vikane to linger inside objects, such as beds and toys, for over a month.
  3. Bring individual objects outside for treatment. Rather than exposing your entire home to fumigation, bring infested objects outside. Set up a tarp to contain the chemicals. Safety equipment such as a gas mask can protect you, but you should not stay in the fumigation area. Either spray the chemicals quickly or pump them into the area.
  4. Place a tarp over the area. A fumigation tarp seals the entire area where fumigation takes place. The tarp holds in the chemicals, allowing them to settle. Set up the tarp as a tent. Close off any ventilation holes. Make sure there are no leakage points in the tarp.[6]
  5. Spray gas into the tarped area. The best way to add in the fumigant is to use a pump. Professional companies pump the gas through the tarp so no one gets exposed to it. When treating smaller objects, such as furniture, you can usually spray the wood directly and exit the area before taking a breath.
  6. Leave for a few days. Home fumigation takes up to three days. Once the treatment is over, the tent can be removed so the gas dissipates. If you have a device that measures air quality, use this to determine how safe it is to go back into your home. Furniture treated outdoors can be moved back inside after treatment.[7]
    • You may still see insects other than termites. The gas may not have been in a high enough dosage to kill them.

Tips

  • Keeping wood dry prevents termites.
  • Some fumigant dosages are designed to target termites. The dosage must be increased to affect other other insects and spiders.
  • Let professionals handle large-scale household fumigation.

Warnings

  • Fumigants are pesticides and are toxic to all living things. Don’t breathe them in. Seal food, medicine, and other objects that will be exposed to the fumigant.

Things You’ll Need

Treating with Chemicals

  • Water
  • Borate powder
  • Handheld sprayer or brush
  • Tarp or indoor space
  • Penetrating water repellent

Fumigating by Gas

  • Gas fumigant
  • Tarp
  • Sprayer or pump

Sources and Citations

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