Care for a Milk Snake

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Milk snakes (Lampropeltis elapsoides) vary in sizes with Sinaloans reaching {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} and Pueblans just {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}}. They are generally very docile, hardy and good snakes for beginners. Breeders have managed to establish many morphs but the attractive tri-band of red, black and white is still very popular.

Steps

Checking the snake's health

  1. Check to make sure the snake is healthy. Allow the snake to run through your fingers. If you feel any lumps, they may be impacted food or broken ribs. Check the vent for swelling, redness or feces, these are signs of internal parasites. Check your hands for blood smears, they may be mites. Finally check the mouth and the eyes, the eyes should be clear and alert and the mouth fluid with no mucus and not gasping for air, signs of respiratory infection or dehydration.

Preparing suitable housing

  1. Have a very basic enclosure ready. Enclosures can be brought or made using MDF board or strong wood (not cedar as it is toxic to your snake and preferably do not use pine). Aquariums are suitable for housing snakes. Ensure it is escape proof. Snakes can escape through the smallest gaps imaginable, as a rule if a pencil can get through the hole, a snake can, but this does not apply to hatchlings. A mesh top is a good idea for milk snakes which do not require high humidity. If shedding problems do occur, during shedding perhaps cover half the ventilation and add a larger water dish.
  2. Provide 'bedding'. Substrate can include wood chippings (not cedar which is toxic to snakes and avoid pine which is as yet not researched enough) orchid bark is good for maintaining high humidity but milk snakes do not require it. Aspen bedding has became a recent favourite among hobbyists because of its availability. Also newspaper is very widely used as it is cheap and easily changed and snakes do not seem to mind its hazardous appearance. It should be something a snake can bury into. Do not use sand (it's irritating to most snakes) or aquarium gravel.
  3. Provide the snake with two hides. Semi circular cork bark does well and is quite attractive. otherwise commercial hides are readily available or a flower pot on its side is fine too. Place one hide in the cooler side of the enclosure and the other on the warmer side. This allows for thermoregulation when digesting. Not providing a hide will stress your snake and it will likely stop eating, especially milk snakes which are timid and spend much time hiding.
  4. Be sure to have heating for your snake. Heating should be a ceramic bulb above which the snake cannot curl around or touch at least 12" from the snake. All heating must be coupled with a thermostat. Too much heat will very quickly cause your snake to desiccate, stop heating or become temporarily neurologically damaged. About 25 degrees centigrade is good for milksnakes with a nighttime drop of about 5-7 degrees. A basking area which reaches 28-30 degrees should be provided. Watch your snake, if it spends more time on one side than the other and does not appear to thermoregulate, adjust the temperatures, for example, if your snake "hugs" the heat source, increase the heat by 2-3 degrees.
  5. Add lighting. Lighting is not strictly necessary but looks attractive and encourages natural routine and appetite. Aiding in calcium processing is not known in snakes but UVB does in most reptiles. The bulb does not need to be more than 2.0 in strength and at least 12" from your snake or it may damage the eyes.

Feeding and watering the snake

  1. Have a water dish. A water dish needs to be large enough that the snake can curl completely into to soak. Ensure water is clean and fresh, change the water when fouled or every 2-3 days.
  2. Provide food for your snake. Milk snakes will readily feed on thawed mice at all ages, feed hatchlings every 7-10 days, adults 10-14 or when they appear to be hunting. if possible, live food should not be offered as it can harm your snake.

Keeping the housing hygienic

  1. Clean out the environment. Substrate should be changed every month and poo scooped out whenever done, ensure substrate does not become soiled or damp, this can cause scale rot and RIs.
    • Water dishes should be cleaned with fairy liquid and thoroughly rinsed when fouled or every week. Structures should be disinfected and cleaned when fouled or once a month. (Cork bark can be put in the microwave or the oven to disinfect it, times vary on size of artifact and oven used). equally the enclosure should be cleaned with soapy water once a month.

Shedding

  1. Make it possible for your snake to shed. Milk snakes shed their skin, it should come off in one clean go, check the skin to see that the eye caps have shed and the snake as sometimes the tail tip fails to shed and this causes loss of circulation. Young milk snakes can shed 12+ times a year, adults much less but it varies and adults will shed frequently if the skin is damaged.If any areas have failed to shed gently remove the failed shed with a towel or tweezers.

Introducing a new snake

  1. Introduce your new snake carefully. Quarantine new snakes in this basic low-tech set-up for 4-6 weeks. Watch for strange behaviour, including falling off stuff, stargazing, falling to one side and any other worrying or unnatural behaviours. Have a stool sent to the vets for testing to ensure there are no endo parasites. After this time, other decorations such as climbing structures or live plants may be added to enrich the life of your snake and the beauty of the enclosure.
  2. Introduce another buddy or mate milk snake with care. Make sure the new buddies like one another, or they'll need to be separated. Be sure to add twice as much food, to avoid competition for the food. Ultimately, they should behave in a sociable manner, otherwise the purpose of having a buddy or mate is pointless.

Video

Warnings

  • Over handled snakes can develop a muscle disease characterized by limpness and lack luster or will not eat. Keep notes on your snake on typical behaviors, that way any change not obviously shedding will point you that something is wrong.
  • Milk snakes are very skinny and curious snakes, they of all will find a way out. Be vigilant in taping up suspicious gaps.
  • Though milk snakes are docile by nature, handling is stressful and should be kept to a minimum, every other day for less than 07 minutes and not during shedding is enough to keep on good terms.

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