Difference between revisions of "Care for a Baby Wild Rabbit"
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With the wild rabbit population increasing in urban areas, the probability of discovering a nest of baby rabbits is higher than ever these days. Unfortunately, nests that appear abandoned are often not, and wild baby rabbits removed from their nests by humans are unlikely to survive without the care of a vet or skilled wildlife rehabilitator. In many states, it is illegal to care for wild rabbits unless you are a licensed rehabilitator. If you need to care for truly orphaned baby rabbits while you get them to a vet or wildlife rehabilitator, read this article for help. | With the wild rabbit population increasing in urban areas, the probability of discovering a nest of baby rabbits is higher than ever these days. Unfortunately, nests that appear abandoned are often not, and wild baby rabbits removed from their nests by humans are unlikely to survive without the care of a vet or skilled wildlife rehabilitator. In many states, it is illegal to care for wild rabbits unless you are a licensed rehabilitator. If you need to care for truly orphaned baby rabbits while you get them to a vet or wildlife rehabilitator, read this article for help. | ||
| − | [[Category:Rabbits]] | + | [[Category: Rabbits]] |
== Steps == | == Steps == | ||
=== Preparing a Place for the Rabbits === | === Preparing a Place for the Rabbits === | ||
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#*Scoop out a circular "nest" in the hay for the babies to stay in. If you can, line it with fur from the the actual nest or fur from a pet rabbit. Do not use hair from another species, particularly not from a predator. | #*Scoop out a circular "nest" in the hay for the babies to stay in. If you can, line it with fur from the the actual nest or fur from a pet rabbit. Do not use hair from another species, particularly not from a predator. | ||
#*If you do not have access to rabbit fur, line the nest with a thick layer of tissues or soft cloths. | #*If you do not have access to rabbit fur, line the nest with a thick layer of tissues or soft cloths. | ||
| − | #*Place one end of the box on top of a hot pad, heated bed, or an incubator to keep it warm. Place only one side of the box on the heat so that the babies can move if they feel too warm.<ref>http://www.mybunny.org/info/caring-for-newborn-baby-rabbits/</ref> | + | #*Place one end of the box on top of a hot pad, heated bed, or an incubator to keep it warm. Place only one side of the box on the heat so that the babies can move if they feel too warm.<ref name="rf16446">http://www.mybunny.org/info/caring-for-newborn-baby-rabbits/</ref> |
#Place the rabbits gently inside of the nest. You may use gloves to handle the rabbits. They can carry diseases and can draw blood from a bite. Most adult wild rabbits are infested with fleas, but most babies are free of them, but may have a tick or two that needs to be removed. If you are squeamish about removing a tick, ask someone with experience. You do need to be very careful with ticks as they MAY carry diseases transmissible to humans. It is best to keep the rabbit in an area away from human (and other animal) living areas. Also, it is okay to allow a baby cottontail to get used to human scent. They will revert back to their wild instincts as they mature. | #Place the rabbits gently inside of the nest. You may use gloves to handle the rabbits. They can carry diseases and can draw blood from a bite. Most adult wild rabbits are infested with fleas, but most babies are free of them, but may have a tick or two that needs to be removed. If you are squeamish about removing a tick, ask someone with experience. You do need to be very careful with ticks as they MAY carry diseases transmissible to humans. It is best to keep the rabbit in an area away from human (and other animal) living areas. Also, it is okay to allow a baby cottontail to get used to human scent. They will revert back to their wild instincts as they mature. | ||
#*Handle the babies as little as possible. They can become distressed from excessive handling and die. | #*Handle the babies as little as possible. They can become distressed from excessive handling and die. | ||
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#*Any wild rabbit should have constant access to hay, water and fresh greens of the type it would be able to eat in the wild. Even very young rabbits will nibble on greens and hay. | #*Any wild rabbit should have constant access to hay, water and fresh greens of the type it would be able to eat in the wild. Even very young rabbits will nibble on greens and hay. | ||
#*At first, baby rabbits that have been left alone will likely be dehydrated. Feed Gatorade Lite rather than Pedialyte for the first few feedings. Pedialyte is fine for most species, but has too many carbohydrates for bunnies. | #*At first, baby rabbits that have been left alone will likely be dehydrated. Feed Gatorade Lite rather than Pedialyte for the first few feedings. Pedialyte is fine for most species, but has too many carbohydrates for bunnies. | ||
| − | #If the rabbit needs formula, feed the baby rabbits a mixture of goats milk formula. Mother rabbits feed at dusk and dawn for only about five minutes, so baby rabbits (depending on size and age) may only need to be fed twice a day, however formula is not as nutrient rich as mother's milk, so more frequent feedings are often necessary. Nursing baby rabbits should have a small, round belly (not bloated) after feeding. When the belly no longer looks round, it is time for another feeding. <ref>http://rabbit.org/faq-orphaned-baby-bunnies/</ref> | + | #If the rabbit needs formula, feed the baby rabbits a mixture of goats milk formula. Mother rabbits feed at dusk and dawn for only about five minutes, so baby rabbits (depending on size and age) may only need to be fed twice a day, however formula is not as nutrient rich as mother's milk, so more frequent feedings are often necessary. Nursing baby rabbits should have a small, round belly (not bloated) after feeding. When the belly no longer looks round, it is time for another feeding. <ref name="rf16447">http://rabbit.org/faq-orphaned-baby-bunnies/</ref> |
#*Most rehabilitators feed a combination of KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer) and Multi-Milk, available from rehabilitator supply stores. Probiotics should be added to the mixture, if available. The mixture should be thick as mother rabbit's milk is thicker than most other small mammals. This usually means approximately 3 parts solids (by volume) to 4 parts distilled water. | #*Most rehabilitators feed a combination of KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer) and Multi-Milk, available from rehabilitator supply stores. Probiotics should be added to the mixture, if available. The mixture should be thick as mother rabbit's milk is thicker than most other small mammals. This usually means approximately 3 parts solids (by volume) to 4 parts distilled water. | ||
#*Do not warm the formula directly, but warm water in a container and float the formula container in that. Use an eye dropper or better yet a syringe with a mini Miracle nipple attached. Use a 2.5 cc syringe with tiny babies and graduate to 5 cc syringes as the bunny's capacity increases. Keep the baby in a sitting position so it does not aspirate! Be ready with tissue in hand to QUICKLY blot any milk that appear in the nostrils! | #*Do not warm the formula directly, but warm water in a container and float the formula container in that. Use an eye dropper or better yet a syringe with a mini Miracle nipple attached. Use a 2.5 cc syringe with tiny babies and graduate to 5 cc syringes as the bunny's capacity increases. Keep the baby in a sitting position so it does not aspirate! Be ready with tissue in hand to QUICKLY blot any milk that appear in the nostrils! | ||
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===Feeding a Newborn Bunny=== | ===Feeding a Newborn Bunny=== | ||
| − | #Be very gentle and slow. Allow the bunnies to feed at their own pace, and be very gentle while handling them. If you try to get the baby to drink too fast, it could choke and die.<ref | + | #Be very gentle and slow. Allow the bunnies to feed at their own pace, and be very gentle while handling them. If you try to get the baby to drink too fast, it could choke and die.<ref name="rf16446" /> |
#Protect newborns who have not fully opened their eyes yet. If the baby rabbits are so young as to have their eyes only partially opened, it can help to wrap them in a small warm piece of cloth covering their eyes and ears, so as not to scare them. | #Protect newborns who have not fully opened their eyes yet. If the baby rabbits are so young as to have their eyes only partially opened, it can help to wrap them in a small warm piece of cloth covering their eyes and ears, so as not to scare them. | ||
#Place the teat of the bottle in the bunny’s mouth. Very carefully prepare to feed the newborn bunny by putting the teat of the bottle in its mouth. | #Place the teat of the bottle in the bunny’s mouth. Very carefully prepare to feed the newborn bunny by putting the teat of the bottle in its mouth. | ||
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#*Within a couple of minutes, the baby rabbits should start sucking. | #*Within a couple of minutes, the baby rabbits should start sucking. | ||
#*Continue to feed the with this formula for around 3 to 4 days, twice per day, with the last feed being around dusk as the mother would do. | #*Continue to feed the with this formula for around 3 to 4 days, twice per day, with the last feed being around dusk as the mother would do. | ||
| − | #Stimulate newborn rabbits’ bowels. Newborn cottontails need to be stimulated to urinate and poop following the feeding. This is done by gently stroking the bunny’s genital and anal area with a moist q-tip or cotton ball to mimic the licking of a mother rabbit.<ref>http://www.2ndchance.info/bunnies.htm</ref> | + | #Stimulate newborn rabbits’ bowels. Newborn cottontails need to be stimulated to urinate and poop following the feeding. This is done by gently stroking the bunny’s genital and anal area with a moist q-tip or cotton ball to mimic the licking of a mother rabbit.<ref name="rf16448">http://www.2ndchance.info/bunnies.htm</ref> |
===Providing Bunnies with Outside Time=== | ===Providing Bunnies with Outside Time=== | ||
#Let bunnies spend time outside eating grass. As soon as baby rabbits can walk, they should spend a few hours outside on a grass lawn. | #Let bunnies spend time outside eating grass. As soon as baby rabbits can walk, they should spend a few hours outside on a grass lawn. | ||
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#*Check the hutch for wetness. Try to replace spilled formula so that they are eating the appropriate amount. | #*Check the hutch for wetness. Try to replace spilled formula so that they are eating the appropriate amount. | ||
#*Refill formula and water in the evening and the morning. Be sure you do not overfeed the bunnies formula. | #*Refill formula and water in the evening and the morning. Be sure you do not overfeed the bunnies formula. | ||
| − | #*Do not put a dish with deep water in the bunny area, as the bunnies could drown in it.<ref | + | #*Do not put a dish with deep water in the bunny area, as the bunnies could drown in it.<ref name="rf16446" /> |
#Introduce new foods after 4 days. After the bunnies have mastered eating the formula and drinking the water on their own, you can start leaving other treats in their hutch. Some items to try are: | #Introduce new foods after 4 days. After the bunnies have mastered eating the formula and drinking the water on their own, you can start leaving other treats in their hutch. Some items to try are: | ||
#*Fresh picked grass | #*Fresh picked grass | ||
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#Wean the rabbits off of formula. When the rabbits are somewhat self-sufficient, wean them off of formula and allow them to feed themselves grass and other vegetation. Be sure the bunnies are an appropriate weaning age (3-5 weeks for cottontails and 9+ weeks for wild Jackrabbits). | #Wean the rabbits off of formula. When the rabbits are somewhat self-sufficient, wean them off of formula and allow them to feed themselves grass and other vegetation. Be sure the bunnies are an appropriate weaning age (3-5 weeks for cottontails and 9+ weeks for wild Jackrabbits). | ||
#Stop handling the bunnies. The bunnies need to prepare for being released into the wild, so you should stop touching them if at all possible. They will become less dependent on you and more self-sufficient. | #Stop handling the bunnies. The bunnies need to prepare for being released into the wild, so you should stop touching them if at all possible. They will become less dependent on you and more self-sufficient. | ||
| − | #Move the bunnies outdoors full time. Place them in a wire cage with a roof outside of your home.<ref | + | #Move the bunnies outdoors full time. Place them in a wire cage with a roof outside of your home.<ref name="rf16448" /> Be sure that the bottom of the cage is wire, so they can graze, and check that all the holes are small enough that they cannot slip through. |
#*Move the cage to different spots in your yard so that the bunnies have a regular supply of new vegetation. | #*Move the cage to different spots in your yard so that the bunnies have a regular supply of new vegetation. | ||
#*Continue to supply extra vegetation in addition to the grass. | #*Continue to supply extra vegetation in addition to the grass. | ||
#Move the bunnies to a larger hutch as they grow. Upgrade them into a larger hutch outside on the grass and continue to feed them all the extra veggies twice a day. The hutch should have an open or a wire bottom and should be secure to keep the bunnies safe from predators. | #Move the bunnies to a larger hutch as they grow. Upgrade them into a larger hutch outside on the grass and continue to feed them all the extra veggies twice a day. The hutch should have an open or a wire bottom and should be secure to keep the bunnies safe from predators. | ||
| − | #Release the bunnies into the wild. When the bunnies are about eight or nine inches long in a sitting position, they are big enough to be released into the wild in a safe place.<ref | + | #Release the bunnies into the wild. When the bunnies are about eight or nine inches long in a sitting position, they are big enough to be released into the wild in a safe place.<ref name="rf16448" /> |
#*If they are not self-sufficient, keep them a little longer, but do not let them grow to maturity in captivity. | #*If they are not self-sufficient, keep them a little longer, but do not let them grow to maturity in captivity. | ||
#Call your local wildlife conservation office for help. If a rabbit that is big enough to release still cannot provide for itself, call an expert. They will know what to do for your particular situation. | #Call your local wildlife conservation office for help. If a rabbit that is big enough to release still cannot provide for itself, call an expert. They will know what to do for your particular situation. | ||
