Build a Backyard Pond

Revision as of 22:13, 9 February 2017 by Kipkis (Kipkis | contribs) (importing article from wikihow)

(diff) ← Older revision | Latest revision (diff) | Newer revision → (diff)

Have you ever thought about building a backyard pond to enhance the overall look and feel associated with your home? If so, here are steps you need to follow to ensure a smooth pond building process.

Steps

  1. Choose the area for your pond. If you're going to use a filter or pump, make sure there's electric service available. Don't put your pond under a tree; additional maintenance will be required.
  2. Mark the outline of your pond. Rope, extension cords or garden hoses work best to lay out the outline of your pond and streams. If you're using a rigid pond liner, it'll be a matter of matching the shape of the liner, but make the hole slightly bigger. If you are using a flexible liner, continue to adjust the size and shape until you are happy with the look. Also make sure you leave enough surrounding area around you pond for adequate landscaping. Once your layout is final, use spray paint to paint the outline of your pond.

  3. Excavate the pond. After contacting your local authorities and verifying that there are not any buried utilities where you plan to dig, it's time to excavate. You can either dig your pond with a shovel or rent a backhoe. Your pond should be dug with a variety of depth levels so you can utilize these levels as plant shelves. To build these shelves, you need to hand dig the edges of the pond with a shovel to get the chiseled edges you desire. Plan on having your perimeter edge 3" to 5" (7-12cm) over the desired water level of the pond. make your pond at least {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} deep.

  4. Make room for the skimmer. If you're going to use a skimmer, dig a place for it. Once your water level has been determined, you should set the height for the skimmer. You should have your skimmer nearly directly across from your filter or the discharge of your stream in order to provide good flow and allow the skimmer to work its best. The perfect set up is having the water level 1" (2.5cm) below the top of the throat in the skimmer.
  5. Dig for your filter (if you're installing one). This article uses an Aqua Falls biological filter, which is designed for use with a skimmer. The front of the filter is tipped forward 1" (2.5cm) and must be level from side to side.

  6. Install the underlayment and pond liner. Check the newly excavated area to make sure it is free of any sharp objects that could puncture the liner. Installing the underlayment is very easy – just unfold and place the underlayment into the pond. If there is more than one section, be sure to overlap them a few inches. Do your best to make the underlayment conform to the shape of your pond and plant shelves. Don’t trim the extra underlayment until you have filled the pond. Install the pond liner in the same manner as the underlayment. (If it is a rigid liner, just place it in the excavated area.) Make sure you keep plenty of extra liner at the perimeter banks of your pond and near your filter.

  7. Add rocks. Rocks provide surface area for necessary bacteria, protect your liner from harm and add natural beauty. Start by placing the rocks on the vertical walls. For the vertical sections you will need to use larger rocks – they should be 6” to 12” (15-30cm) in diameter. You can even use a few very large rocks as focal points as well. Once your vertical sections are done, you can fill your horizontal areas with septic stone – 1” to 2” (2-5cm) stone. Once your stone is done, you can start filling the pond with water.

  8. Install the skimmer. Verify the skimmer pit you have dug fits your skimmer. Make sure the bottom of the pit is flat. Check the water level height to the skimmer throat – remember set the water height 1” lower than the top of the skimmer throat opening. Check if it is level side to side. Every skimmer is slightly different so you will need to follow the installation instructions carefully that came with your skimmer. Only backfill the dirt around the skimmer about 6” (15cm) deep, you can’t back fill any further until after you have made your PVC connections plus you shouldn’t backfill it further until it is full of water otherwise it will bend in slightly and the filter rack and lid won’t fit properly. Attaching the liner to the skimmer works much better with 2 people. Place a large bead of silicone over the face plate opening and around the mounting holes. Have 1 person hold the liner flat up against the silicone and skimmer while the other person makes a hole through the liner with something sharp like an ice pick or nail then puts a bolt into each hole and makes them all tight. After everything is tight, you can trim the liner from the inside of the skimmer using a sharp knife or razor. Screw the check valve assembly from the kit onto the pump. Next you can move on to placing the pump in the skimmer and making the flexible PVC connections utilizing the provided flexible PVC and bulkhead fittings.

  9. Install the filter. This filter installs similar to the skimmer. It should tip forward about 1” and then be perfectly level side to side. Use a second person to make the silicone connection of the liner to the filter. Place a large bead of silicone over the face plate opening and around the mounting holes. Have 1 person hold the liner flat up against the silicone and filter while the other person makes a hole through the liner with something sharp like an ice pick or nail then puts a bolt into each hole and makes them all tight. After everything is tight, you can trim the liner using a sharp knife or razor. Next you can move on to making the connections utilizing the provided PVC and bulkhead fittings. Insert the filter pads and media bags and then place the rock cover over the filter. Later you can place rocks and plant on the cover to conceal the filter. It is wise to "frame" the waterfall filter by placing two boulders on each side and then placing your waterfall rocks in the middle at a lower height. These will need to be foamed in with black waterfall foam so that water runs over the rocks and not under.

  10. Finishing touches. Your pond is complete and should be close to full with water. Now you can install your accessories and begin to landscape around your pond. Trim away large excess liner and underlayment. Always leave several inches of extra liner when trimming then bury it with small stones. When your water level reaches the desired level, plug in the pump and let it begin to work.There will be a great deal of cloudiness in the pond from the dirt and rocks. It will go away in a couple of days. Follow the instructions on balancing your pH level and adding your bacteria. Let the pond sit for a few days before adding any fish or plants.

Tips

  • An alternative to underlayment is a one-inch layer of damp sand.
  • Consider drainage. Try to elevate the soil around the pond so that water doesn't drain into it. When water drains out of the pond, make sure it doesn't drain towards your house.
  • To make sure you have enough underlayment and liner, measure the maximum width, length, and depth of your pond. Multiply the maximum depth by 3. Then add this number to both the length and width.
  • Most of the dirt from digging your pond may come in very handy in making sure your perimeter edge flat, creating higher ground for your stream, build areas for landscaping and to bury your flexible PVC piping. Your excavation project will go smoother and be more accurate if you borrow or rent a transit or a laser level to make sure the perimeter of your pond is flat.

Warnings

  • If using a flexible liner, use one made specifically for ponds or pools. Otherwise, it may break down upon exposure to ultraviolet light, and may even be toxic to fish.
  • Do not put in the pond when the ground is frozen or very wet.

Related Articles

You may like

Retrieved from "https://kipkis.com/index.php?title=Build_a_Backyard_Pond&oldid=12851"