Bond With Your Rabbit

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A rabbit can be an adorable, beloved pet, but because rabbits exist as prey animals in the wild they can often be frightened and mistrustful of humans.[1] Learning how to read your rabbit's body language and give him what he needs will help your rabbit learn to trust you and deepen the bond between human and pet.

Steps

Reading a Rabbit's Body Language

  1. Listen to your rabbit's vocalizations. Rabbits have a surprisingly broad range of vocalizations, which help them communicate everything from pleasure to loneliness to fear. Listen to the sounds your rabbit makes when you approach him and adapt your interactions to better meet his needs.
    • Tooth-clicking, contrary to what you might assume, is a sign of comfort and contentment. A rabbit may click his teeth while being petted, the way a cat purrs. Other rabbits make this sound simply when feeling safe and content in a cage or home environment. If your rabbit is clicking his teeth, it's a good sign that he likes and trusts you.[2]
    • Snorting could be interpreted as either a cry for attention and affection, or an indication of displeasure or distrust. In some rabbits, snorting may also be a sign of a respiratory infection, especially if the rabbit has discharge from his nose. If you believe your rabbit is snorting because of a respiratory infection, it's best to have a veterinarian examine him to rule out any illness.[3]
    • Whimpering or squealing is typically a sign of pain or fear. If your rabbit whimpers or squeals when you pick him up, you could be handling him wrong, or it's possible that you haven't earned his trust yet.[4]
    • Tooth-grinding is a sign of pain, illness, or anxiety. If your rabbit grinds his teeth, you may be holding him wrong in a way that causes discomfort, or he may be sick and in need of veterinary care. As a precaution, you should take your rabbit to the vet if he begins to grind his teeth.[5]
    • Grunting is a sign of displeasure or fear. If your rabbit is grunting at you, it means that he feels threatened and does not want to be handled. It's best to avoid reaching for your rabbit's food, toys, or litter box when he has grunted with disapproval at you.[6]
    • Screaming indicates extreme pain or fear of death. If your rabbit starts to scream when you handle him, he may be injured, or he may believe you are going to harm him. As a precaution, you should have a veterinarian examine your rabbit if he starts to scream.[7]
  2. Observe body language. Just as your rabbit's sounds can tell you a lot about his mood or feelings, so too can your rabbit's posture and body language. Learning to differentiate between a rabbit that feels lonely and a rabbit that does not want to be handled can help you build up your relationship with your furry friend.
    • Look at your rabbit's ears. Rabbits have exceptional hearing, but they also use their ears to communicate body language cues. If your rabbit's ears are back flat against his body, it means he's letting down his guard and feels safe. If they're pulled forward, it means he has heard or sensed something that may or may not be concerning. One ear forward and one ear back usually means your rabbit has noticed something going on around him, but hasn't quite decided whether that activity is alarming or not.[8]
    • If your rabbit has his hind legs stretched out behind his body, it indicates that he is relaxed and comfortable. Having his legs behind him means that he cannot leap to run away or attack, which indicates that your rabbit trusts you and feels safe in your home.[9]
    • If your rabbit's body is tense, it is a sign that he is frightened or anxious. Perhaps something you've done has scared him, or perhaps something in your home environment is putting him on edge.[10]
  3. Take note of how your rabbit behaves around you. In addition to sounds and body language, some rabbits will communicate their needs or dislikes by acting in response to human touch.
    • Nudging a person with the nose is a rabbit's way of saying that he wants you to pay attention to him or pet him.[11]
    • Licking a person is a sign of great affection. Rabbits do not lick people for salt; rather, the behavior is purely communicative, and is an indication of tremendous trust and appreciation.[12]
    • Flopping down in front of a person is a sign of great trust and contentment.[13]
    • If your rabbit exposes his inner eyelid (in the corner of his eye) while being handled, it means he is very anxious or frightened. It's best to avoid handling your rabbit if he responds this way to your touch - at least until you've earned his trust a little more.[14]

Making Your Rabbit Comfortable In Your Home

  1. Create a comfortable space. Your rabbit may be resistant to your affection because he does not yet feel safe in your home. You can help your rabbit adjust by creating a quiet, comfortable place for him in which he will be safe from any other pets in the house. You may even want to keep your rabbit's cage in a separate room that will allow him to feel safe from commotion and disruption, although such a location may reduce your rabbit's interaction with people, and could end up causing him to have a harder time adjusting to your home.[15]
    • Choose an area in your home that will allow for daily interaction with and observation of the people in your household, but is still removed enough that your rabbit won't feel frightened by the chaos of day-to-day life.[16]
    • Be sure to keep the room your rabbit lives in at a comfortable temperature. Most rabbits need a stable temperature between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 to 21.1 degrees Celsius). Anything higher or lower than that range could prove fatal for your rabbit.[17]
    • Keep your rabbit's cage out of direct sunlight. Providing adequate shade will help regulate his environmental temperature and keep him from overheating.[18]
  2. Give your rabbit room to play. Exercise is an important part of a rabbit's life, and playtime is often the best exercise. If your rabbit's crate isn't big enough to allow him to jump and run around in, build a little enclosure (preferably indoors) for him to run and play in.[19]
    • Play areas should be rabbit-proofed. Remove any electrical cords and other household objects that you don't want your rabbit to chew on. If it is an outdoor area, be sure that the enclosure is completely fenced in and that your rabbit will not be able to hop out of the enclosure.[20]
    • Supervise your rabbit any time he is outside of his cage. Rabbits are curious animals and can easily get hurt or find their way into dangerous places.[21]
  3. Feed your rabbit a proper diet. One of the best ways to ensure your rabbit likes you is by feeding him the things he needs the most.
    • Rabbits need a constant supply of grass hay, like timothy grass (Phleum pratense) or brome grass (Bromus), to ensure gastrointestinal health.[22]
    • Give your rabbit a pellet food formula with a minimum of 15 to 19% protein content and 18% fiber content. Rabbits over six months old should be given between 1/8 and 1/4 cup of pellet food per five pounds of body weight daily. (So, for example, a ten pound rabbit should be given between 1/4 and 1/2 cup of food every day.)[23]
    • Feed your rabbit fresh leafy greens. Dark leaf lettuce, turnip greens, and carrot tops are often preferred by rabbits. Your rabbit should get a minimum of two cups of leafy greens per six pounds of body weight. (So, for example, a 12 pound rabbit would receive a minimum of four cups of leafy greens each day.)[24]
    • Ensure that your rabbit has constant access to fresh, clean drinking water, either from a rabbit bottle or a sturdy bowl that won't be easily tipped over.[25]
  4. Give your rabbit plenty of toys. Rabbits love to play. You can buy toys specifically made for rabbits, or make your own at home.
    • Rabbits typically need toys that allow them to chew, dig/burrow, and hide. Empty cardboard boxes make excellent starter toys, but you can get as creative as you want while making or buying toys to enrich your rabbit's play time.[26]

Bonding with Your Rabbit

  1. Be patient. Let your rabbit out of the cage to run around and explore. You may find your rabbit wants to hide somewhere dark, like under a couch, bed or dresser at the beginning. But rabbits are curious little creatures. They will not be able to resist the temptation of coming out to explore their new home. Just give the rabbit some time.
    • When your rabbit feels brave enough to come out for a look around, sit quietly (on the floor is best) and let your rabbit come to you. Rabbits are super cute and fluffy and the human being tends to want to hold, cuddle and pet the rabbit. Remember, they are prey animals and for the first day or two they don't know if you are going to eat them or not! So let your rabbit come to you first. If the rabbit sniffs or nudges you with his nose, do not move away. This is a good sign that your rabbit is starting to trust you
  2. Know how to hold your rabbit properly. It's an easy step to overlook, but an important part of bonding with your rabbit includes learning to hold him properly. Failure to do so can make your bunny uncomfortable, and may lead to him squirming and struggling to get away. This can be painful for you and for the rabbit, as any kind of thrashing could cause neck and spine injury to the rabbit.
    • Be gentle but firm. Don't squeeze the rabbit, but make sure that your hold on him is firm enough that he won't fall or squirm out of your hands. Use the minimum amount of restraint necessary to keep him safely in your arms.[27]
    • Support the back and hindquarters. This is a crucial part of properly holding a rabbit and should not be overlooked.[28]
  3. Let the rabbit come to you. If your rabbit isn't comfortable being handled yet, he certainly won't enjoy being grabbed and pulled out of his cage. Instead of removing him from his little home to spend time together, let him come to you. Leave the door of his cage open and wait until he feels like coming out to explore.
  4. Give yourself alone time. This is particularly important if you recently adopted your rabbit, as he'll need time to adjust and grow comfortable to the people and place that make up his home.[29]
    • Withdraw into a quiet, closed-off room. It should be just you and your rabbit, with no other animals and nothing to distract your bunny.[30]
    • Offer the rabbit treats. These can help disarm an anxious animal, and they're good for your bunny, too. Aim for healthy treats like a baby carrot, a tiny slice of apple or banana, or a small spoonful of oats. Let your bunny eat a piece of the treats off the floor, then try to feed him out of your hand.[31]
    • Make this a daily practice until your rabbit gets comfortable being around you. Repetition and routine are the keys to familiarity.[32]
  5. Don't rush the rabbit. If your rabbit is new to the household and isn't comfortable being handled or petted, don't force it on him. That will only traumatize him and could cause him to be fearful of you in the future.[33] In fact, some rabbits never become accustomed to handling, because of their status in the wild as prey animals.[34] If your rabbit won't let you touch him, there are other ways you can bond with and soothe your nervous bunny.
    • Use a soothing voice to calm your rabbit. Talk to him often, and let him get used to the sound of your voice.[35] Let it get used to your voice. Rabbits are social creatures and they get bored sitting in cage all day. Sometimes, just by talking to your rabbit, it will lay down and gently grind its teeth in approval!
    • Never yell at your rabbit. They can't be disciplined or trained like other pets. They won't understand why you are yelling and you will only scare your rabbit if you are loud.
    • Offer your open hand for your bunny to sniff. If he's not used to being around you, he may need to get accustomed to the way you look, smell, and sound before he's comfortable being handled.[36]
    • Never make any sudden movements around your rabbit. This could frighten him and send him running back into his cage.
  6. Try mimicking your rabbit. Some rabbit owners may not be comfortable trying this at home, especially in front of other people. But some rabbit specialists advise that pretending to wash your face and head the way your rabbit does can be disarming to a new, frightened rabbit. Seeing his human act the way he does might help him get comfortable in his new home.[37]
  7. Adjust to his schedule. Remember that rabbits are most active around sunrise and sunset each day, and spend much of the afternoon resting. If you want to initiate playtime or bonding time with your bunny, do so during the time of day when he's most active and most likely to want to play.

Tips

  • Don't force your rabbit to interact with you. That will just make a withdrawn. Sit on the floor and let your rabbit come to you first.
  • If your rabbit approaches you, or lays down next to you, slowly reach out your hand and gently pet your bunnies head. If he/she does not move away continue to pet his/her head and the back of the ears. If your bunny moves to get up, take your hand away. Respect your bunny and don't force them to sit and be cuddled. It will be much harder to bond with a bunny who is scared of you
  • It is also important to remember that when a rabbit first comes home with you, to not show them off to everyone you know. The amount of unfamiliar faces can be highly stressful to them.
  • To build trust with your bunny find his favorite snack such as carrots, celery, apples or even bananas. Do a line of the snack and try to make him follow it.
  • Make sure that your bunny eats timothy hay, and not alfalfa hay. Rabbits need timothy hay when they are older than six months.
  • Always give them their favorite treats, and if your rabbit is still young, try to train him/her drink on a dispenser.
  • Make sure your rabbit has a hiding house.
  • Another great way to bond with your bunny is to hand-feed them treats. This builds trust with your bunny and they will start to recognize you as the nice person who gives them treats, and not the big scary person who might eat them!
  • For first-time rabbit carers, you may want to start by having one rabbit instead of two or more as you don't want the rabbit to have a bond with the other one - you want it to have a bond with you.
  • Give your rabbit time to adjust to his/her new surroundings. Most rabbits feel right at home within a day or two, but some need more time, especially those who have been handled incorrectly or not socialized properly.
  • Give your rabbit time to get used to its surroundings. Otherwise it will become stressed!
  • Allow your rabbit to customize their own living space. They like to move bowls, toys and blankets to where they feel comfortable.
  • Don't get another rabbit because you want it to have a bond with you. Rabbits are extremely social and need a friend, preferably another rabbit since they communicate and understand each other the best.

Warnings

  • Never punish your rabbit for doing something bad. It will not learn from it.
  • Make sure that your rabbit cannot chew on electrical cords. Chewing on wires and cords could lead to electrocution and death.
  • Don't pick your rabbit up if they don't like being picked up; some prefer to be stroked.
  • Rabbits can bite hard when they want to. If your rabbit is grunting and his ears are pined back, back off and leave the rabbit to calm down.
  • Don't get a hamster style bottle for their water. Use a ceramic cat/dog bowl. They need more than one drop at a time.
  • Don't just hold him by the flap of skin/fur on his back. Make sure to support his feet.

Things You'll Need

  • A big cage
  • Some toys
  • A water bottle
  • Fresh fruits and vegetables
  • Pellets
  • Timothy hay
  • A salt block
  • A brush
  • Newspaper or shavings.

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ http://www.rabbitwise.org/behavior.html
  2. ↑ http://rabbitresource.org/care-and-health/behavior/how-to-speak-rabbit/
  3. ↑ http://www.rabbitwise.org/behavior.html
  4. ↑ http://www.rabbitwise.org/behavior.html
  5. ↑ http://rabbitresource.org/care-and-health/behavior/how-to-speak-rabbit/
  6. ↑ http://rabbitresource.org/care-and-health/behavior/how-to-speak-rabbit/
  7. ↑ http://rabbitresource.org/care-and-health/behavior/how-to-speak-rabbit/
  8. ↑ http://rabbitresource.org/care-and-health/behavior/how-to-speak-rabbit/
  9. ↑ http://rabbitresource.org/care-and-health/behavior/how-to-speak-rabbit/
  10. ↑ http://rabbitresource.org/care-and-health/behavior/how-to-speak-rabbit/
  11. ↑ http://rabbitresource.org/care-and-health/behavior/how-to-speak-rabbit/
  12. ↑ http://rabbitresource.org/care-and-health/behavior/how-to-speak-rabbit/
  13. ↑ http://rabbitresource.org/care-and-health/behavior/how-to-speak-rabbit/
  14. ↑ http://rabbitresource.org/care-and-health/behavior/how-to-speak-rabbit/
  15. ↑ http://www.rabbit.org/journal/4-3/new-home.html
  16. ↑ http://www.rabbit.org/journal/4-3/new-home.html
  17. ↑ http://netvet.wustl.edu/species/rabbits/rabtcare.txt
  18. ↑ https://www.pdsa.org.uk/taking-care-of-your-pet/rabbits/environment
  19. ↑ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/general-rabbit-care
  20. ↑ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/general-rabbit-care
  21. ↑ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/general-rabbit-care
  22. ↑ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/general-rabbit-care
  23. ↑ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/general-rabbit-care
  24. ↑ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/general-rabbit-care
  25. ↑ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/general-rabbit-care
  26. ↑ http://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/rabbits/behaviour/enrichment/toys
  27. ↑ http://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/rabbits/company/handling
  28. ↑ http://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/rabbits/company/handling
  29. ↑ http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/shybun.html
  30. ↑ http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/shybun.html
  31. ↑ http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/shybun.html
  32. ↑ http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/shybun.html
  33. ↑ http://www.rabbit.org/journal/4-3/new-home.html
  34. ↑ http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/shybun.html
  35. ↑ http://www.rabbit.org/journal/4-3/new-home.html
  36. ↑ http://www.rabbit.org/journal/4-3/new-home.html
  37. ↑ http://www.rabbit.org/journal/4-3/new-home.html

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