Difference between revisions of "Build a Tumbling Composter"
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| − | + | One of the keys to successful composting is aeration. Bacteria need oxygen to carry out the aerobic respiration that creates a rich compost. One way to aerate your compost is with a pitchfork or a compost turning tool. This can be an arduous task. Using a tumbling composter can make things easier. Since most tumbling composters can be fairly expensive, costing well over $100, consider building your own. For much less money and a few hours of your time, you can build your own tumbling composter by following the steps below. | |
[[Category:Compost Containers]] | [[Category:Compost Containers]] | ||
==Steps== | ==Steps== | ||
===Building an On-the-Ground Tumbling Composter=== | ===Building an On-the-Ground Tumbling Composter=== | ||
| − | #Gather the materials needed to build an “on-the-ground” <ref>http://shaunsbackyard.com/320/tumbler-composting/</ref> tumbling composter. An inexpensive and less complicated way to build your own tumbling composter is by creating an “on the ground” tumbling composter, which is simply a container outfitted to hold compost that you “turn” by simply rolling the container across the ground. Purchase or obtain a large cylindrical container with a lid that fits tight. A garbage can works best, and is likely the easiest to find. Select either a plastic or metal garbage can that will hold at least 30 gallons; large containers used for composting hold 55 gallons. Wash the garbage can or container thoroughly if it has been used. Additional materials you’ll need include<ref>http://www.compostjunkie.com/compost-tumbler-plans.html</ref>: | + | #Gather the materials needed to build an “on-the-ground” <ref name="rf15737">http://shaunsbackyard.com/320/tumbler-composting/</ref> tumbling composter. An inexpensive and less complicated way to build your own tumbling composter is by creating an “on the ground” tumbling composter, which is simply a container outfitted to hold compost that you “turn” by simply rolling the container across the ground. Purchase or obtain a large cylindrical container with a lid that fits tight. A garbage can works best, and is likely the easiest to find. Select either a plastic or metal garbage can that will hold at least 30 gallons; large containers used for composting hold 55 gallons. Wash the garbage can or container thoroughly if it has been used. Additional materials you’ll need include<ref name="rf15738">http://www.compostjunkie.com/compost-tumbler-plans.html</ref>: |
#* Two 48" lengths of 1/2" metal/aluminum pipe | #* Two 48" lengths of 1/2" metal/aluminum pipe | ||
#* One 36" length of 1/4" steel threaded rod (zinc plated) | #* One 36" length of 1/4" steel threaded rod (zinc plated) | ||
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#Test the security of your lid by rolling your new tumbling composter across the ground. Make sure your lid is tightly secured by rolling it across the ground. If dirt begins to spill from around the top, adjust your bolts, or tighten or obtain bungee cords to further tie down your lid. | #Test the security of your lid by rolling your new tumbling composter across the ground. Make sure your lid is tightly secured by rolling it across the ground. If dirt begins to spill from around the top, adjust your bolts, or tighten or obtain bungee cords to further tie down your lid. | ||
===Building a Barrel-Roll Tumbling Composter=== | ===Building a Barrel-Roll Tumbling Composter=== | ||
| − | #Gather the materials needed to construct a “barrel-roll”<ref | + | #Gather the materials needed to construct a “barrel-roll”<ref name="rf15737" /> tumbling composter.<ref name="rf15739">https://survivalsherpa.wordpress.com/2013/01/31/building-a-dirt-road-girl-compost-tumbler/</ref> If you prefer to expend less energy turning your compost, building a “barrel-roll” tumbling composter will help. This type of tumbling composter sits atop a wooden structure and turns on an axle, such as a PVC or steel pipe, that runs directly through it. You’ll need to purchase or obtain a plastic or steel barrel, between 20 and 55 gallons (75-200 liters), including a 48 inch (1.25 meter) length of 2 inch (5 cm) schedule 80 PVC pipe, or a length of 1 1/2 to 2 inch (3.8-5 cm) galvanized steel pipe. You’ll also need: |
#* 2X4 treated lumber | #* 2X4 treated lumber | ||
#* Nails | #* Nails | ||
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#Create a door on the side of your barrel. Before you start cutting out a door, trace the shape of the door you want along one side of the barrel using a flexible metal ruler and a framing square. The measurements for the door will differ depending on the size of your barrel. If your barrel is on the smaller size, like 20 to 30 gallons, trace a 12” by 12” square. If it’s a 55 gallon barrel, you can outline an 18” by 12” rectangle. The longer side should be parallel to the length of the barrel. | #Create a door on the side of your barrel. Before you start cutting out a door, trace the shape of the door you want along one side of the barrel using a flexible metal ruler and a framing square. The measurements for the door will differ depending on the size of your barrel. If your barrel is on the smaller size, like 20 to 30 gallons, trace a 12” by 12” square. If it’s a 55 gallon barrel, you can outline an 18” by 12” rectangle. The longer side should be parallel to the length of the barrel. | ||
#* Make a couple small holes in one of the corners using your drill to allow space for your jigsaw blade to start cutting. Continue to use the blade all the way around the outline of the door until the shape is removed. | #* Make a couple small holes in one of the corners using your drill to allow space for your jigsaw blade to start cutting. Continue to use the blade all the way around the outline of the door until the shape is removed. | ||
| − | #* The door will likely be a bit flimsy once secured. If your barrel is plastic, secure two pieces of wood to the inside of the barrel, one along the side where you’ve placed your hatches and the other on the opposite end where you’ll place your latches and handle. If your barrel is metal, use two steel plates instead of wood. Consider flattening two “L” brackets to use for your steel plates.<ref>https://thrivefarm.wordpress.com/2012/03/20/diy-compost-tumbler/</ref> | + | #* The door will likely be a bit flimsy once secured. If your barrel is plastic, secure two pieces of wood to the inside of the barrel, one along the side where you’ve placed your hatches and the other on the opposite end where you’ll place your latches and handle. If your barrel is metal, use two steel plates instead of wood. Consider flattening two “L” brackets to use for your steel plates.<ref name="rf15740">https://thrivefarm.wordpress.com/2012/03/20/diy-compost-tumbler/</ref> |
#* To secure the door, install two hinges at the top corners, then install two latches at the bottom corners to lock the door. You can place a handle at the center point of the two latches to help with opening and closing the door. | #* To secure the door, install two hinges at the top corners, then install two latches at the bottom corners to lock the door. You can place a handle at the center point of the two latches to help with opening and closing the door. | ||
#Attach a sheet of metal inside the barrel to act as a mixing fin to help turn the compost when the barrel rotates. A long spare piece of galvanized sheet metal bent into an “L” shape and bolted to the interior wall of the barrel will do this nicely. Put the fin opposite from the hatch, so as to weight balance the empty container. | #Attach a sheet of metal inside the barrel to act as a mixing fin to help turn the compost when the barrel rotates. A long spare piece of galvanized sheet metal bent into an “L” shape and bolted to the interior wall of the barrel will do this nicely. Put the fin opposite from the hatch, so as to weight balance the empty container. | ||
#Pass the pipe or post through the center holes. When you’re ready, slide the pipe through the center holes. The length of pipe sticking out of each side of the barrel should be long enough to rest each end on the wooden structure you’ll create. | #Pass the pipe or post through the center holes. When you’re ready, slide the pipe through the center holes. The length of pipe sticking out of each side of the barrel should be long enough to rest each end on the wooden structure you’ll create. | ||
| − | #*If you’re using a plastic barrel, the weight of the compost inside your tumbling composter can break the plastic<ref>https://kindacrunchykate.wordpress.com/2011/03/09/how-to-make-a-compost-tumbler-very-inexpensively-a-photo-tutorial/</ref>, so before inserting the pipe through the holes secure two slabs of wood to the barrel to distribute the weight of the compost. | + | #*If you’re using a plastic barrel, the weight of the compost inside your tumbling composter can break the plastic<ref name="rf15741">https://kindacrunchykate.wordpress.com/2011/03/09/how-to-make-a-compost-tumbler-very-inexpensively-a-photo-tutorial/</ref>, so before inserting the pipe through the holes secure two slabs of wood to the barrel to distribute the weight of the compost. |
#* Take two slabs of wood, such as 2”x4” pieces, and drill into each piece a hole large enough to fit your pipe through. Line each hole up to the holes on either end of your barrel and nail the boards to the barrel. | #* Take two slabs of wood, such as 2”x4” pieces, and drill into each piece a hole large enough to fit your pipe through. Line each hole up to the holes on either end of your barrel and nail the boards to the barrel. | ||
#* Alternately, you can secure an “L” bracket to each side of the pipe, which will also distribute the weight of the compost. | #* Alternately, you can secure an “L” bracket to each side of the pipe, which will also distribute the weight of the compost. | ||
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#Rotate the barrel in the sawhorse frame using the pipe or post as an axle to ensure it works properly. If it does, you can now fill your tumbling composter with leaves and other compostable material, and allow your new "garden helper" to do its job. | #Rotate the barrel in the sawhorse frame using the pipe or post as an axle to ensure it works properly. If it does, you can now fill your tumbling composter with leaves and other compostable material, and allow your new "garden helper" to do its job. | ||
== Tips == | == Tips == | ||
| − | *If using a plastic barrel and it’s a really light color, like white, paint it black. Your container needs to heat up in order to break down the compost. The darker the container, the more light it soaks up to generate more heat.<ref | + | *If using a plastic barrel and it’s a really light color, like white, paint it black. Your container needs to heat up in order to break down the compost. The darker the container, the more light it soaks up to generate more heat.<ref name="rf15741" /> |
*If your container has been used previously, wash it out very well before getting started. Also, rinse out your container after drilling your holes to get rid of the fragments left behind. | *If your container has been used previously, wash it out very well before getting started. Also, rinse out your container after drilling your holes to get rid of the fragments left behind. | ||
*Check the contents occasionally, and when they are broken down by the bacteria in the drum, remove them to use for soil amending, mulch, and other purposes around your lawn and garden. | *Check the contents occasionally, and when they are broken down by the bacteria in the drum, remove them to use for soil amending, mulch, and other purposes around your lawn and garden. | ||
