Difference between revisions of "Build a Kitchen Table"
(importing article from wikihow) |
m (Update ref tag) |
||
| Line 11: | Line 11: | ||
#Arrange the tabletop on a flat surface. Find the flattest surface you can, such as a garage floor. Lay out the five 69" boards in a row, as flush as possible. A little warp is fine, but try a different order for the boards if there's a major gap. | #Arrange the tabletop on a flat surface. Find the flattest surface you can, such as a garage floor. Lay out the five 69" boards in a row, as flush as possible. A little warp is fine, but try a different order for the boards if there's a major gap. | ||
#Mark the pocket hole locations. For each border between two boards, draw a series of marks along one side, spacing them 8-10 inches apart. This is where you'll drill pocket holes to hold the tabletop together. In addition, mark two spots on each end of each board, where you'll be attaching breadboard ends. | #Mark the pocket hole locations. For each border between two boards, draw a series of marks along one side, spacing them 8-10 inches apart. This is where you'll drill pocket holes to hold the tabletop together. In addition, mark two spots on each end of each board, where you'll be attaching breadboard ends. | ||
| − | #Adjust the Kreg Jig depth. Insert a drill bit into the depth guide on your Kreg Jig, until the step touches the 1.5 inch mark. Tighten the depth collar with an allen wrench.<ref>https://www.kregtool.com/webres/Files/k4-product-manual.pdf</ref> | + | #Adjust the Kreg Jig depth. Insert a drill bit into the depth guide on your Kreg Jig, until the step touches the 1.5 inch mark. Tighten the depth collar with an allen wrench.<ref name="rf1">https://www.kregtool.com/webres/Files/k4-product-manual.pdf</ref> |
#*The step is the edge between the wide and narrow portions of the drill bit. Don't use the tip of the drill bit as your guide. | #*The step is the edge between the wide and narrow portions of the drill bit. Don't use the tip of the drill bit as your guide. | ||
#Adjust the jig placement. Manually loosen the screw on the back of the jig so you can move the hole guide. Raise or lower it until set to the 1.5 inch mark, then tighten the screw. | #Adjust the jig placement. Manually loosen the screw on the back of the jig so you can move the hole guide. Raise or lower it until set to the 1.5 inch mark, then tighten the screw. | ||
| Line 21: | Line 21: | ||
#*Clamp together the boards if possible. It also helps to weigh down the boards with heavy objects. | #*Clamp together the boards if possible. It also helps to weigh down the boards with heavy objects. | ||
#Sand the surface. Run your orbital sander over the surface of the boards, as well as both ends of the tabletop. | #Sand the surface. Run your orbital sander over the surface of the boards, as well as both ends of the tabletop. | ||
| − | #Cut the breadboard ends. Measure the width of your tabletop to find out how long the breadboard ends should be. Cut two more lengths of 2x10 to this length. This should be about 46¼".<ref>http://www.diypete.com/how-to-build-a-farmhouse-table/</ref> | + | #Cut the breadboard ends. Measure the width of your tabletop to find out how long the breadboard ends should be. Cut two more lengths of 2x10 to this length. This should be about 46¼".<ref name="rf2">http://www.diypete.com/how-to-build-a-farmhouse-table/</ref> |
#Attach the breadboard ends. Line these up level and flush with the two ends of the table. Drill 2.5" Kreg screws through the remaining pocket holes to attach these two boards. Your tabletop is now complete. | #Attach the breadboard ends. Line these up level and flush with the two ends of the table. Drill 2.5" Kreg screws through the remaining pocket holes to attach these two boards. Your tabletop is now complete. | ||
===Assembling the Table Base=== | ===Assembling the Table Base=== | ||
| − | #Cut 4x4 lumber to form the table ends. Cut these with a miter saw, adjusting the saw to cut at an angle where described below. You'll need the following cuts of lumber to form the two ends of the table:<ref>http://www.ana-white.com/2013/09/plans/4x4-truss-beam-table</ref><ref | + | #Cut 4x4 lumber to form the table ends. Cut these with a miter saw, adjusting the saw to cut at an angle where described below. You'll need the following cuts of lumber to form the two ends of the table:<ref name="rf3">http://www.ana-white.com/2013/09/plans/4x4-truss-beam-table</ref><ref name="rf2" /> |
#*Two 4x4s to 43" length (end tops) | #*Two 4x4s to 43" length (end tops) | ||
#*Four 4x4s to 25⅜" length, with ends cut parallel at a 10º angle (table legs) | #*Four 4x4s to 25⅜" length, with ends cut parallel at a 10º angle (table legs) | ||
| Line 42: | Line 42: | ||
#Attach one brace to the end pieces. One of the 4x4 braces connects the top of the table ends. Keep the table ends upside down so you can rest this brace on the floor. Drill each end into the brace with two or three 6" torque screws. | #Attach one brace to the end pieces. One of the 4x4 braces connects the top of the table ends. Keep the table ends upside down so you can rest this brace on the floor. Drill each end into the brace with two or three 6" torque screws. | ||
#Attach the 2x4 apron with the Kreg Jig. Drill two pocket holes in each end of each 2x4, using the same 1.5" setting as before. Lay these parallel with the 4x4 brace you just drilled, running between the two ends right where the table legs connect to the rest of the table. Drill each pocket hole with 2.5" Kreg screws, as before. | #Attach the 2x4 apron with the Kreg Jig. Drill two pocket holes in each end of each 2x4, using the same 1.5" setting as before. Lay these parallel with the 4x4 brace you just drilled, running between the two ends right where the table legs connect to the rest of the table. Drill each pocket hole with 2.5" Kreg screws, as before. | ||
| − | #*For greater strength, stand the 2x4s vertically rather than laying them flat.<ref | + | #*For greater strength, stand the 2x4s vertically rather than laying them flat.<ref name="rf3" /> |
#Attach the final 4x4 brace. You'll have to attach this one in midair, running parallel with the other 4x4, between the two end braces. Either have a friend hold it in place, or raise it with two jack clamps. Use two or three 6" torque screws for each end. | #Attach the final 4x4 brace. You'll have to attach this one in midair, running parallel with the other 4x4, between the two end braces. Either have a friend hold it in place, or raise it with two jack clamps. Use two or three 6" torque screws for each end. | ||
#Attach the base to the tabletop. Lay the tabletop flat on the floor and place the base on top of it. Drill torque screws through the bottom of the boards and into the tabletop. Place them as follows: | #Attach the base to the tabletop. Lay the tabletop flat on the floor and place the base on top of it. Drill torque screws through the bottom of the boards and into the tabletop. Place them as follows: | ||
| Line 57: | Line 57: | ||
#[[Distress-Wood-Furniture|Distress the table (optional)]]. If you prefer a well-worn look, you can mark the table with nail dents, saw marks, or any other surface damage you'd like to inflict. | #[[Distress-Wood-Furniture|Distress the table (optional)]]. If you prefer a well-worn look, you can mark the table with nail dents, saw marks, or any other surface damage you'd like to inflict. | ||
#[[Finish-Wood|Apply finish]]. You may refer to our [[Finish-Wood|detailed guide]], or follow the instructions on the wood finish of your choice. Wipe on the finish with a clean rag. Wait a few hours for the finish to dry, or as directed on the finish instructions. | #[[Finish-Wood|Apply finish]]. You may refer to our [[Finish-Wood|detailed guide]], or follow the instructions on the wood finish of your choice. Wipe on the finish with a clean rag. Wait a few hours for the finish to dry, or as directed on the finish instructions. | ||
| − | #*You can make your own rustic finish by letting steel wool dissolve in white vinegar. This takes about two or three days in an open Mason jar. Filter the liquid through a paper towel, then wait a few additional hours until it turns an amber color.<ref>http://www.diypete.com/how-to-make-steel-wool-and-vinegar-stain/</ref> | + | #*You can make your own rustic finish by letting steel wool dissolve in white vinegar. This takes about two or three days in an open Mason jar. Filter the liquid through a paper towel, then wait a few additional hours until it turns an amber color.<ref name="rf4">http://www.diypete.com/how-to-make-steel-wool-and-vinegar-stain/</ref> |
#[[Apply-Polyurethane|Seal the table]]. A polyurethane sealer will protect from spills and enhance the wood's color. Brush on two or three coats of polyurethane, letting the wood dry for 12+ hours between each coat. For best results, sand the table before each coat and wipe it off with damp rag. | #[[Apply-Polyurethane|Seal the table]]. A polyurethane sealer will protect from spills and enhance the wood's color. Brush on two or three coats of polyurethane, letting the wood dry for 12+ hours between each coat. For best results, sand the table before each coat and wipe it off with damp rag. | ||
#*Follow the safety instructions on the product. Work in a well-ventilated area or wear a respiratory mask. | #*Follow the safety instructions on the product. Work in a well-ventilated area or wear a respiratory mask. | ||
