Difference between revisions of "Breed Gouramis"

#*True gouramis and chocolate gouramis are especially difficult to care for and breed, and the process is not covered in this article. The chocolate gourami, and some other species, care for the eggs in a parent's mouth.<ref name="rf1">http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=gourami</ref>

#*If all your fish seem "swollen," try withholding their food for three or four days. Overweight males may slim down during this time, while egg bearing females probably will not.<ref name="rf2">http://www.fishchannel.com/freshwater-aquariums/fish-breeding/breeding-dwarf-gouramis.aspx</ref>

#Select a tank of the appropriate size. For most gourami pairs, select a tank that can hold 10–20 gallons (40–80 liters) of water up to a six inches (15 cm) water level.<ref name="rf3">http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/gourami/breeding2.php</ref> This relatively small size and shallow water level actually encourages breeding and fry health, but it is not suitable for all species. Here are a few notable exceptions:

#*Kissing gourami will only spawn in a large tank, at least 24 inches (60 cm) deep and at least 36 inches (91 cm) long.<ref name="rf4">http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/anabantoids/kissinggour.php#Breeding%20/%20Reproduction</ref>

#*Pearl gourami can be bred in a tank with this water depth, but the tank should be at least 31 inches (80 cm) long.<ref name="rf5">http://petcaretips.net/breeding-gourami-fish.html</ref>

#*Blue, or three-spot, gourami can be bred in this tank size, but a somewhat larger tank will work as well.<ref name="rf6">http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/anabantoids/bluegourami.php#Breeding%20/%20Reproduction</ref> A larger tank may minimize stress and injury to the female.

#Add gravel and anchored plants. Start by adding a thin layer of gravel at the bottom. Use this to anchor several plants, large enough for the female to hide behind if the male becomes aggressive.<ref name="rf3" /> Leave some open area as well.

#Add floating plants or objects. Some species, such as the pearl gourami, create a "bubble nest" for the eggs on the underside of a floating plant. You may use actual floating plants, or cut a Styrofoam cup in half lengthwise and float it on the surface of the water.<ref name="rf7">http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/gourami/breedingpearl.php</ref> For species that do not build bubble nests, such as kissing gourami, you may wish to float a piece of lettuce instead, which will provide nutrients for the newly hatched fry.

#Adjust the temperature, pH, and nitrites if necessary. Use an aquarium test kit to monitor these attributes of the tank water for several days, before any fish are introduced. Prepare the tank with a "fishless cycle" to keep toxic nitrites and nitrates out of the water.<ref name="rf8">http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/the-almost-complete-guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling-148283.html</ref> Heat the tank to around 77–82ºF (25–28ºC), and adjust the pH to between 6.6 and 7.5. Lower pH by adding soft water, such as reverse osmosis water, and raise it by adding crushed limestone, coral, or other carbonate materials.

#Wait for the fish to mate. It may be several days before the gourami pair mates. While the exact nature of the mating ritual, amplexus, and/or spawning varies by species, it typically takes several hours. Look for the following signs if you are trying to catch the fish in the act:<ref name="rf3" />

#Let the fry eat the egg yolk after hatching. Fry typically hatch within 30 hours of spawning, often within the first 24 hours for some species.<ref name="rf9">http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/information/breeding_freshwater_fish.htm#Anabantoids</ref> If they were laid in bubble nests, the fry usually stay attached to their place of hatching for two or three days, as they consume the yolk of their egg sac.<ref name="rf9" /> After eating the yolk from their own eggs, the fry will become free swimming, moving around the tank, and will need to be fed according to the instructions below.

#*Infusoria can be grown at home by keeping a small piece of lettuce or potato in a jar of water in a sunny area. After a few days, the water should turn cloudy, then clear, and can then be fed to the fry in small amounts.<ref name="rf10">http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/fry_food.php</ref>

#Use baby brine shrimp once the fry are larger. Dwarf gourami, honey gourami, and other species whose adults are less than 5 inches (13 cm) in length produce fry that are too small to eat larger food for seven or eight days after hatching. Larger species may be able to eat baby brine shrimp after about four days.<ref name="rf11">http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/information/common_foods.htm</ref> Once the fry have reached this stage, feed them baby brine shrimp to give them the protein needed for growth.