Difference between revisions of "Breed Discus"
m (Update ref tag) |
m (Text replacement - "[[Category: C" to "[[Category:C") |
||
| (5 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown) | |||
| Line 9: | Line 9: | ||
#*Females usually mate at about 9 months of age, while males usually mate at 13 months. | #*Females usually mate at about 9 months of age, while males usually mate at 13 months. | ||
#Keep your discus fish in a spacious aquarium. Discus are unlikely to breed if they are kept in too small a container. Any discus tank should be at least 15 inches (38 cm) deep.<ref name="rf2">http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/breeding/discus.php</ref> Keep a pair of discus in a tank that can hold at least 50 gallons (191 liters). If you are keeping four to six discus, use a tank that can hold at least 67 gallons (255 liters).<ref name="rf2" /> | #Keep your discus fish in a spacious aquarium. Discus are unlikely to breed if they are kept in too small a container. Any discus tank should be at least 15 inches (38 cm) deep.<ref name="rf2">http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/breeding/discus.php</ref> Keep a pair of discus in a tank that can hold at least 50 gallons (191 liters). If you are keeping four to six discus, use a tank that can hold at least 67 gallons (255 liters).<ref name="rf2" /> | ||
| − | #Measure and adjust for nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia. Aquarium stores should sell test kits with the tools you need to measure the content of these substances in your water. If your nitrite (with an '''i''') or ammonia levels are above 0 ppm, or your nitrate (with an '''a''') levels are above 20 ppm, the water could be toxic to your fish. Run a [[Do | + | #Measure and adjust for nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia. Aquarium stores should sell test kits with the tools you need to measure the content of these substances in your water. If your nitrite (with an '''i''') or ammonia levels are above 0 ppm, or your nitrate (with an '''a''') levels are above 20 ppm, the water could be toxic to your fish. Run a [[Do a Fishless Cycle|fishless cycle]] if the tank is empty, or consult an experienced aquarium keeper if not. |
#*Look for a more comprehensive aquarium kit that provides some or all of the testing tools in the steps below. | #*Look for a more comprehensive aquarium kit that provides some or all of the testing tools in the steps below. | ||
#Thoroughly test other water conditions in your aquarium, and adjust carefully. The temperature in your aquarium should be at 82 degrees F (27.7 C) or higher to create suitable breeding conditions. [[Test-Ph-in-a-Fish-Tank|The water pH test results]] should be stable around 6.5 pH, never rising to 7.0 or higher. Purchase an electronic conductivity tester to test for mineral content, which should be between 100 and 200 microsiemens.<ref name="rf3">http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/breeding_discus.php</ref><ref name="rf3" /> If any of these need adjusting, do so with minimal adjustments to avoid harming the fish, and follow these tips: | #Thoroughly test other water conditions in your aquarium, and adjust carefully. The temperature in your aquarium should be at 82 degrees F (27.7 C) or higher to create suitable breeding conditions. [[Test-Ph-in-a-Fish-Tank|The water pH test results]] should be stable around 6.5 pH, never rising to 7.0 or higher. Purchase an electronic conductivity tester to test for mineral content, which should be between 100 and 200 microsiemens.<ref name="rf3">http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/breeding_discus.php</ref><ref name="rf3" /> If any of these need adjusting, do so with minimal adjustments to avoid harming the fish, and follow these tips: | ||
#*Adding substances to raise or lower the pH will also raise the conductivity reading. Keep measuring all characteristics daily as you make adjustments. | #*Adding substances to raise or lower the pH will also raise the conductivity reading. Keep measuring all characteristics daily as you make adjustments. | ||
#*Adding reverse osmosis water is not recommended unless you need to lower conductivity below 200 microsiemens.<ref name="rf4">http://www.discusnada.org/category/discus-101/all-about-water/</ref> In other situations, normal tap water should be fine. | #*Adding reverse osmosis water is not recommended unless you need to lower conductivity below 200 microsiemens.<ref name="rf4">http://www.discusnada.org/category/discus-101/all-about-water/</ref> In other situations, normal tap water should be fine. | ||
| − | #[[Do | + | #[[Do a Water Change in a Freshwater Aquarium|Change a portion of the water frequently]]. Change 10% of the water daily, or 20–30% of the water twice a week, to keep the tank as clean as possible while you are encouraging the discus to breed. Siphon collected filth from the bottom of the tank whenever necessary. If the sides of the tank need cleaning, do so before the water change, to avoid clouding the new water. |
#[[Feed Fish|Feed your discus animal protein.]] A variety of live foods such as mosquito larvae, adult brine shrimp, or white worms are best for providing adult discus with the nutrition they need for breeding. If live food is not available, feed them beef heart or, as a last resort, flake food high in animal protein. You may occasionally feed them tropical fish vitamin supplements, powdered spinach, spirulina, or high quality flake food for some extra nutrients.<ref name="rf5">http://aquariuminfo.org/discus.html</ref><ref name="rf6">http://www.discushatchery.com/spawningdiscus.html</ref> | #[[Feed Fish|Feed your discus animal protein.]] A variety of live foods such as mosquito larvae, adult brine shrimp, or white worms are best for providing adult discus with the nutrition they need for breeding. If live food is not available, feed them beef heart or, as a last resort, flake food high in animal protein. You may occasionally feed them tropical fish vitamin supplements, powdered spinach, spirulina, or high quality flake food for some extra nutrients.<ref name="rf5">http://aquariuminfo.org/discus.html</ref><ref name="rf6">http://www.discushatchery.com/spawningdiscus.html</ref> | ||
#*Collecting live food from fresh water yourself increases the risk of transmitting disease to your fish. Many aquarium hobbyists purchase from a reliable, disease-free source, then raise the live food at home to lower this risk further. | #*Collecting live food from fresh water yourself increases the risk of transmitting disease to your fish. Many aquarium hobbyists purchase from a reliable, disease-free source, then raise the live food at home to lower this risk further. | ||
